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Using HDR for architectural photography

While blending or merging several exposures into one final High Dynamic Range (HDR) image remains a popular creative option for landscape photographers over the years, its use in architectural and commercial shoots has some big benefits that are unique to the challenges of shooting these genres.

In many scenarios, especially outdoors, photographers can normally rely on graduated filters to balance a scene by blocking large parts of the frame with a neutral density layer – evening up the brightness from the shadows to the highlights. But while this works well on large, sweeping horizons and foregrounds (i.e., landscape shooting), when it comes to making that process work for odd-shaped buildings and structures with various hotspots and dark areas, we’re often unable to use the same approach.

And where using a filter isn’t an option, or where the sheer amount of “fill light” you’d need to balance the scene becomes prohibitive, that’s where Capture One’s HDR Merge function can now deliver the results you need.

How It’s Used

HDR Merge relies on you capturing two or more images (ideally three), at differing exposures – allowing one frame to overexpose (and so, display the shadow detail), another to underexpose (and therefore keep all the detail in the highlights) and one frames in-between as “base” exposures.

Capture One then takes these individual frames and merges the relevant parts of each of them into one, final, raw DNG file that can be further edited just like any other image from your camera.

The result?

If captured correctly – preferably on a tripod, with fixed focus point, focal length, aperture, and ISO – Capture One then delivers a single file with a much greater dynamic range than your original files, able to recover and see all highlight detail, clean shadow content, and everything in between.

The challenge that many see against blending bracketed exposures into an HDR image, is the relative ease with which Capture One allows us to recover a single shot’s shadows and highlights using our existing software tools – and as such, some don’t necessarily see the HDR tool as a benefit to their workflow.

Of course, it’s possible to recover the highlight detail and shadow information from our single shot (on the left) using Capture One’s White, Black, Shadow and Highlight sliders to deliver a very similar result to that of the 4-shot merged single HDR output on the right:

That is, until we look closer – at the much cleaner noise in the shadows…

At the increased detail in the wooden textures…

And at the improved sharpness of objects across the scene…

Why HDR Creates Cleaner Results

When it comes to “impossible shapes” of lighting, we can sometimes feel that we’ve been forced into using HDR to capture all the details we want. Yet, there are huge benefits that can help even a standard image, regardless of whether a filter or fill-flash could have been used instead.

If we consider what the merge process is actually doing, it’s taking content from 2, 3, 4+ frames and blending the best exposed pixels.

Given that noise is random and more pronounced in underexposed shadows – the process of blending several frames together, including those which have a better signal-to-noise ratio in their own right, means that our output is the best possible mix of all of the details we want, with none of the artefacts that distract us from the overall image.

Using HDR in Everyday Shots of Architecture and Structures

Let’s take this Golden Gate Bridge example at sunrise, and think how we could capture the detail of the sun itself, while not losing the colour and content of the bridge which is currently in silhouette.

Now, we could use a standard “graduated neutral density” filter, but where would we align it?

No matter where we place that filter in front of the lens, we’ll be unintentionally cutting off and darkening some part of the bridge as well as the sun that we’d meant to in the first place. Without a custom filter designed for this exact viewpoint, on this exact camera with that exact lens – there’s not much we can do.

We’re stuck with either a sun that is overexposed or a bridge that is permanently in detail-less shadow.

But with an HDR approach, we can use the details of the three individual frames with varying exposures to merge all that content into a final shot (just as before) which is almost noise-free when I lift the shadows of the bridge itself up high.

Our blended image has the full range of detail in the highlights of the sun, the shadows of the bridge, and everything in between. But even better, it also has sharp, noise-free, content throughout – no matter how much I lift or recover the shadows and highlights as I edit.

If we compare the merged HDR output (on the right) to the result of “lifting” the shadows of a single frame that was correctly exposed for the sun (and therefore, underexposed), the difference is quite staggering.

Considerations for Shooting

To get the best out of Capture One’s HDR Merge tool in terms of architecture and structural photography, there are a few considerations to bear in mind:

  • Always use a firm, sturdy, solid tripod and never move the camera once in position.
  • Lock in your aperture, white balance, ISO, focus and focal length (on a zoom lens).
  • Shoot at a low enough ISO to keep your base exposure “clean” of noise – and don’t worry about your underexposed image, we won’t be using those shadows anyway; only its highlight detail.
  • You are ONLY going to adjust your shutter speed between shots – many cameras have an automatic function for this, but if yours doesn’t, aim to shoot three frames, three stops apart. No other setting should be changed.
  • Be careful with any form of moving object – pay particular attention to moving parts of a structure, people, traffic, things being blown by the wind, clock faces(!) and more – and check they were merged in the way you expected once the process is complete.

Editing Your Merged HDR Image

When using Capture One’s HDR Merge function (after selecting the exposures you’d like it to use), it presents you with just two simple choices before it gets to work:
Auto-Adjust : Capture One will adjust the sliders in the adjustment panel to deliver a blended HDR output with adjustments already made to the DNG in order to give a good start at getting the most from the captured range.
Auto-Align : While helpful for emergencies, or for handheld shooters, if you’re taking this type of photography seriously, you shouldn’t need this Capture One “helper”. Instead of relying on this option to “fix” any issues, your images should all be perfectly aligned at the point of capture having used a tripod. If they’re not, Capture One can attempt to lay them out correctly before you, before blending instead.

It’s worth performing your basic lens corrections on each individual frame before blending – such as diffraction correction, light falloff, purple fringing, etc.

However, for shots that require a keystone correction or rotation to happen, make sure you only do this to the final DNG output – tiny variations between frames can really throw the process out and lead to “ghosts” and mismatches in the image.

Instead, once merged, apply any rotation, keystone correction and aspect ratio changes as a finishing touch.

HDR as a Powerful Tool

As with all photography, less is often more – but when it comes to capturing the full detail of a tricky scene, whether indoors or outside, the HDR Merge tool within Capture One 22 can be a lifesaver.

With noise-free shadows, sharp details, the ability to see a much greater range of content in one scene without needing to resort to a rig of 50 lights from every angle, and a fully-editable raw DNG file as an output; – the HDR toolkit really is a powerful addition to your workflow that can save a tricky shot in many situations.

One Final Thought

Don’t forget, the HDR Merge function is just one of the new features that can help photographers capture complex structures and buildings at their best. Combined with the new Panoramic Stitching feature, and you’ll find you can create tack-sharp, noise-free, ultra-wide perspective projections of places and spaces with ease.

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Into the Wild with Landscape Photographer Leroy Souhuwat

Hailing from the Netherlands and with roots in South Maluku, Iceland-based nature and landscape photographer Leroy Souhuwat brings an exploratory passion and a worldly perspective to his images, which are punctuated by raw, powerful landscapes – and the odd adorable puffin or two. Leroy’s work aims to inspire humans to reconsider their relationship with nature, particularly when confronted with its enormity and unpredictability. We spoke with Leroy about his photography journey and how the untamed landscapes of his new home, along with the support and encouragement of the wider photographic community, have inspired his creative endeavors.

How did you get into photography?

In 2018 I moved from The Netherlands to Iceland, it was a very impulsive move, but it might be one of the best decisions I have made so far in my life. In that first year, I went on many road trips around the country and took all my photos with just my smartphone. I wanted to share all the incredible views with my family and friends abroad.

Then I got so into it that I decided to buy my first professional camera in early 2020, which was the Fujifilm XT30. After extensive research, I figured this was the camera that would fit me the most. The overall look, size, physical dials, and astonishing straight-out-of-camera shots were all factors that pleased me a lot. After just a few months, I sold the XT30 and opted for the XT3 and X100V, which are now my main weapons alongside my DJI Air 2S.

Dark waterfall in Iceland

How did you turn your hobby photography into a profession?

After posting my photos on different social media channels, I noticed that there was a lot of positive feedback on my work, not only from my family and friends but also from many other creatives out there in the world. This motivated me to create more content since it was inspiring others. I really felt my work was appreciated. Not long after, I started being recognized as a photographer in Iceland, and that opened doors to the world of freelancing.

All of a sudden, I was receiving inquiries for event, portrait, and food photography shoots. I was super stoked about it, but I figured I needed a speedlight, especially with studio work. So I purchased the Godox V1 and a softbox. After many sleepless nights and hours of watching YouTube videos on how to work with flash, I practiced and became more and more confident in using it. That’s when I knew I was ready to take on paid jobs.

How would you describe your photography style?

My usual landscape/nature work has a raw and moody vibe, I would say. Since my ancestors grew up in the Maluku Islands and I am now living in Iceland, I want to show how that feels for someone who still has tropical genes running through his body. I try to capture that raw and moody feeling that the nature in Iceland gives me through my work.

How do you capture your subjects?

The lenses I use the most when going out for nature shots are the Fujinon 10-24mm and the Fujinon 70-300mm. I enjoy capturing wide, but I also love to zoom in and isolate a subject. It depends on how I feel in that moment, I am constantly looking around for things that catch my eye and switch lenses quickly when needed.

What is some advice you have for up-and-coming landscape photographers?

A major tip for any landscape photographer just starting out is to learn how to read the histogram on your camera screen. In the very beginning, I had no clue how it worked, so I just shot photos like there was no tomorrow, only to figure out afterward that I had completely blown out the highlights or crushed the shadows and there was nothing to recover. Do not rely solely on your eyes or your LCD screen on this one. Just make sure the histogram graph doesn’t spike all the way to the left or right but try to keep it all even and balanced in the middle where possible.

And invest in a tripod. You’ll thank me later when you discover the world of long exposures. It also gives you that extra stability for example if you need to lower your shutter speed in case of a low light situation.

Why do you use Capture One?

Capture One has been my main editing software since I began my photography journey. I tried several different programs and I noticed that Capture One handled Fuji files the best. The fact that it offers tethered shooting is also a big plus for my studio work. The layer system is also convenient to have. Plus, the color editor is one of the most advanced I have seen and a real joy to work with as a photographer.

The new HDR and Pano tools are a blast to use. I can finally stitch photos together and use the HDR merge to create shots I couldn’t take before. It works super easy and is so convenient – I really can’t wait to produce more content through these new tools.

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capture one webinar using layers part 1

Using Layers (Part 1)

Make the most of Layers with this in-depth look at Capture One’s layering capabilities – which have grown significantly over the past few years. In this two-part series, we’ll cover everything you need to know about using layers in Capture One, to make your editing more useful and targeted.

In the first part, we’ll walk you through:

  • The concept of Layers
  • Different ways to draw masks
  • Brush settings like Hardness and Flow
  • Style Brushes

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capture one webinar using layers part 2

Using Layers (Part 2)

Go even deeper with Layers in the second part of our two-part series on Capture One’s layering capabilities. In this session, we will wrap up what you need to know about using Layers and run through some practical examples of using layering in your editing.

In the second part, we’ll cover:

  • Healing and Cloning
  • Luminosity Masking
  • Refining, Feathering and other ways to modify Layer masks

Download a 30-day trial of Capture One.

Sign up for the webinar