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Five unexpected ways to use Panorama Stitch from Capture One experts

Capture One just introduced a Panorama Stitch feature in the recent launch of Capture One 22. The new feature allows photographers to stitch several RAW images into a large panorama and opens the door to new possibilities. We asked our in-house experts how they use the feature to create striking images and go beyond the traditional panoramic look.

Panoramic image of mountain range

Go beyond the classic panorama image like this using the Panorama Stitch Feature.

How to use Panoramic Stitch to create super high resolution for large prints

 

Trees covered in snowy mist. Image created with panoramic stitch effect

“I’m constantly drawn to large minimalistic scenes that will calm the mind. The scenes I photograph are for large printing, creating a window into another reality captured in time,” says Capture One Senior Product Manager and photographer, Stefan Hellberg.

“To do this there needs to be a lot of information and resolution to work with and a clean image without distortion.”

“I’m often travelling light and do not want to let gear get in the way of work. At the moment of this photograph, I had one 63mm lens for my Fuji GFX camera with me. Because of the surrounding area, the scene I wanted to catch in front of me was impossible to get in one frame with my lens. Instead, I shot six portrait format images to cover the scene. This allowed me to get a wide scene without the downside of distortion in a wide lens. I ended up with a super high-resolution image (135MP) very well suited for large printing.”

Capture One software showing selection of images used to create snowy tree image

How to get wide-angle images without wide-angle distortion

Many photographers have encountered the issue of wide-angle distortion. The Panorama Stitch solves this and makes it is possible to achieve significant image quality improvement in a wide-angle image compared to a single image made taken with a wide-angle lens, according to Capture One’s very own image quality professor and Senior Principal Software Engineer, Niels Knudsen.

“I was inspired to take this image because of the dramatic sky developing over this typical landscape from the west coast of Jutland in Denmark. In this wide view image, I needed to place the horizon low to show the dramatic sky,” explains Knudsen.

Image of a field created using panoramic stitch feature

Stitched image made from three images shot on an APSC camera using a 24mm lens at f8

“The challenge when using a wide-angle lens is that it shows an increasing amount of unavoidable distortion the closer you get to the corners. When I place the horizon low in the frame, I will not only be hit by this strong distortion but also by the falling lines of the perspective. On top of this, I am also hit by the typical sharpness drop near the edges of the lens.”

Side by side comparison of single wide-angle image and Panorama stitched image

The images above are both with the same field of view. At this size, both images look similar. Left: Single wide-angle image (12mm f8) Right: Panorama stitched image

Side by side comparison 200% zoom singe wide-angle and of 200% zoom panorama stitched

The same two images now zoomed into 200% near the left edge of the frame. Left: 200% zoom singe wide-angle Right: 200% zoom panorama stitched

“The quality difference is obvious when using the Panorama Stitch. The image using the Panorama Stitch looks sharper and the distorted view is gone.”

Here is how Niels did it:

  1.  Shoot several RAW images. These are shot with a 24mm lens (APSC camera).
    3 RAW images used to create panoramic stitch
  2. Select the images in the browser, right-click on one of them, and select the “Stitch to Panorama” feature.
  3. In this example, the spherical projection is used achieve the best look. The 100% scale is also used to get the highest possible quality.
    Screenshot from Capture One showing how to select the spherical projection feature
  4. Crop the image to see the full blue opening in the sky.  This results in black corners. Fix this by adding a few strokes with the Clone and Heal brush. 
    Screenshot from Capture One showing how to fix black corners
  5. Finally, add some contrast, clarity and change the White Balance to achieve the final image.

How to capture wide-angle images using only one lens or a fixed lens camera.

Some photographers like to travel light and only bring one lens with them. With the Panorama Stitch feature, shooting wide-angle images with a single lens or fixed lens camera is no longer a problem.

“I always try to bring a camera wherever I go and one of my favorite cameras to bring with me is the Fuji X100 camera with a fixed 23mm lens (APSC),” says Knudsen.

“Here is an example where I created a wide-angle look with my fixed lens camera. I was inspired by the thin white strokes of clouds in the sky that played so nicely with the white patches on the façade of the blue glass building. With my fixed lens camera, the only way of catching this scene was by taking a row of five portrait-oriented images for later stitching in Capture One.”

Five images used to create panoramic stitch of office building

“When stitching the images, I selected the panini projections as it, in this case, gives me the best compromise between the largest image frame and minimum distorted lines. I also chose 50% scaling as my purpose was to generate a wide-angle image and not necessarily a super high-resolution image.”

Office building by the water. Image made with panoramic stitch

Final stitch made from five portrait-oriented images from the fixed lens camera.

How to create extreme wide-angle images stitched from several wide-angle images.

In addition to allowing for wide-angle shots, the Panorama Stitch feature can take your images to the extreme. In the example below, Knudsen used the Panorama Stitch to create an image with an almost 160 degree field of view with five wide-angle images.

“The Danish Radio Concert Hall is a spectacular venue and is unique as the spectators are located all around the music scene. The whole concert hall with all its sound-engineered constructions and the spread-out balconies is an extremely fascinating view, especially from the top balconies. Even my super-wide zoom 10-18 mm (APSC) would not cover the whole view.”

The five portrait images were shot at 18mm. All five shots were handheld.

“To cover the view, I shot five portrait-oriented images at 18mm. This is still a rather wide view, but I wanted to take it even further. Being able to use this wide focal length I could cover the view with only one row of images.”

16o degree image from the Danish Radio Concert Hall made using panoramic stitch

Final stitched image covering almost 160deg of view. The person in the image is hardly distorted by placing the him the middle of one of the frames.

How to get a crazy shallow depth of field (Brenizer Method)

Imagine shooting portraits in a beautiful location with a 35mm f/0.7 (if such a lens existed), completely separating your subject from the surroundings and a shallow depth of field, keeping the high image quality you love without any distortion. With the right technique, this is possible using panorama stitching.

Stitched images using the Brenizer Method. A wide-angle view with a low depth of field

Stitched images using the Brenizer Method. A wide-angle view with a low depth of field.

“Think of this stitching method as a jigsaw puzzle; Multiple rows and columns of images stitched together into one large image,” says Alexander Flemming, Product Manager at Capture One.

“The benefit of this method is that you can choose the number of rows and columns yourself to cover your composition and get really close to your subject. When you get closer to your subject, the depth of field gets shallower.”

“Shooting multiple photos with overlap between each shot, pointing to the left, right, up, and down, and eventually covering your desired composition, is what provides you the raw material. Stitching all these images together in Capture One 22 gives you a truly remarkable result – if the raw material was shot correctly. A super high-resolution DNG file with a crazy shallow depth of field, ready for editing.”

Screenshot showing 19 images used for the final stitched image

Nineteen images are used for the final stitched image

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Final image using panoramic stitch. Girl in a field

Final image with adjustments The images made using a Sony A7r III with an 85mm f/1.8 lens.

Read more about how to prepare for and shoot with this method in The Brenizer Method.

Watch the tutorial on how to use the Panorama Stitch.

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Using HDR for architectural photography

While blending or merging several exposures into one final High Dynamic Range (HDR) image remains a popular creative option for landscape photographers over the years, its use in architectural and commercial shoots has some big benefits that are unique to the challenges of shooting these genres.

In many scenarios, especially outdoors, photographers can normally rely on graduated filters to balance a scene by blocking large parts of the frame with a neutral density layer – evening up the brightness from the shadows to the highlights. But while this works well on large, sweeping horizons and foregrounds (i.e., landscape shooting), when it comes to making that process work for odd-shaped buildings and structures with various hotspots and dark areas, we’re often unable to use the same approach.

And where using a filter isn’t an option, or where the sheer amount of “fill light” you’d need to balance the scene becomes prohibitive, that’s where Capture One’s HDR Merge function can now deliver the results you need.

How It’s Used

HDR Merge relies on you capturing two or more images (ideally three), at differing exposures – allowing one frame to overexpose (and so, display the shadow detail), another to underexpose (and therefore keep all the detail in the highlights) and one frames in-between as “base” exposures.

Capture One then takes these individual frames and merges the relevant parts of each of them into one, final, raw DNG file that can be further edited just like any other image from your camera.

The result?

If captured correctly – preferably on a tripod, with fixed focus point, focal length, aperture, and ISO – Capture One then delivers a single file with a much greater dynamic range than your original files, able to recover and see all highlight detail, clean shadow content, and everything in between.

The challenge that many see against blending bracketed exposures into an HDR image, is the relative ease with which Capture One allows us to recover a single shot’s shadows and highlights using our existing software tools – and as such, some don’t necessarily see the HDR tool as a benefit to their workflow.

Of course, it’s possible to recover the highlight detail and shadow information from our single shot (on the left) using Capture One’s White, Black, Shadow and Highlight sliders to deliver a very similar result to that of the 4-shot merged single HDR output on the right:

That is, until we look closer – at the much cleaner noise in the shadows…

At the increased detail in the wooden textures…

And at the improved sharpness of objects across the scene…

Why HDR Creates Cleaner Results

When it comes to “impossible shapes” of lighting, we can sometimes feel that we’ve been forced into using HDR to capture all the details we want. Yet, there are huge benefits that can help even a standard image, regardless of whether a filter or fill-flash could have been used instead.

If we consider what the merge process is actually doing, it’s taking content from 2, 3, 4+ frames and blending the best exposed pixels.

Given that noise is random and more pronounced in underexposed shadows – the process of blending several frames together, including those which have a better signal-to-noise ratio in their own right, means that our output is the best possible mix of all of the details we want, with none of the artefacts that distract us from the overall image.

Using HDR in Everyday Shots of Architecture and Structures

Let’s take this Golden Gate Bridge example at sunrise, and think how we could capture the detail of the sun itself, while not losing the colour and content of the bridge which is currently in silhouette.

Now, we could use a standard “graduated neutral density” filter, but where would we align it?

No matter where we place that filter in front of the lens, we’ll be unintentionally cutting off and darkening some part of the bridge as well as the sun that we’d meant to in the first place. Without a custom filter designed for this exact viewpoint, on this exact camera with that exact lens – there’s not much we can do.

We’re stuck with either a sun that is overexposed or a bridge that is permanently in detail-less shadow.

But with an HDR approach, we can use the details of the three individual frames with varying exposures to merge all that content into a final shot (just as before) which is almost noise-free when I lift the shadows of the bridge itself up high.

Our blended image has the full range of detail in the highlights of the sun, the shadows of the bridge, and everything in between. But even better, it also has sharp, noise-free, content throughout – no matter how much I lift or recover the shadows and highlights as I edit.

If we compare the merged HDR output (on the right) to the result of “lifting” the shadows of a single frame that was correctly exposed for the sun (and therefore, underexposed), the difference is quite staggering.

Considerations for Shooting

To get the best out of Capture One’s HDR Merge tool in terms of architecture and structural photography, there are a few considerations to bear in mind:

  • Always use a firm, sturdy, solid tripod and never move the camera once in position.
  • Lock in your aperture, white balance, ISO, focus and focal length (on a zoom lens).
  • Shoot at a low enough ISO to keep your base exposure “clean” of noise – and don’t worry about your underexposed image, we won’t be using those shadows anyway; only its highlight detail.
  • You are ONLY going to adjust your shutter speed between shots – many cameras have an automatic function for this, but if yours doesn’t, aim to shoot three frames, three stops apart. No other setting should be changed.
  • Be careful with any form of moving object – pay particular attention to moving parts of a structure, people, traffic, things being blown by the wind, clock faces(!) and more – and check they were merged in the way you expected once the process is complete.

Editing Your Merged HDR Image

When using Capture One’s HDR Merge function (after selecting the exposures you’d like it to use), it presents you with just two simple choices before it gets to work:
Auto-Adjust : Capture One will adjust the sliders in the adjustment panel to deliver a blended HDR output with adjustments already made to the DNG in order to give a good start at getting the most from the captured range.
Auto-Align : While helpful for emergencies, or for handheld shooters, if you’re taking this type of photography seriously, you shouldn’t need this Capture One “helper”. Instead of relying on this option to “fix” any issues, your images should all be perfectly aligned at the point of capture having used a tripod. If they’re not, Capture One can attempt to lay them out correctly before you, before blending instead.

It’s worth performing your basic lens corrections on each individual frame before blending – such as diffraction correction, light falloff, purple fringing, etc.

However, for shots that require a keystone correction or rotation to happen, make sure you only do this to the final DNG output – tiny variations between frames can really throw the process out and lead to “ghosts” and mismatches in the image.

Instead, once merged, apply any rotation, keystone correction and aspect ratio changes as a finishing touch.

HDR as a Powerful Tool

As with all photography, less is often more – but when it comes to capturing the full detail of a tricky scene, whether indoors or outside, the HDR Merge tool within Capture One 22 can be a lifesaver.

With noise-free shadows, sharp details, the ability to see a much greater range of content in one scene without needing to resort to a rig of 50 lights from every angle, and a fully-editable raw DNG file as an output; – the HDR toolkit really is a powerful addition to your workflow that can save a tricky shot in many situations.

One Final Thought

Don’t forget, the HDR Merge function is just one of the new features that can help photographers capture complex structures and buildings at their best. Combined with the new Panoramic Stitching feature, and you’ll find you can create tack-sharp, noise-free, ultra-wide perspective projections of places and spaces with ease.

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Into the Wild with Landscape Photographer Leroy Souhuwat

Hailing from the Netherlands and with roots in South Maluku, Iceland-based nature and landscape photographer Leroy Souhuwat brings an exploratory passion and a worldly perspective to his images, which are punctuated by raw, powerful landscapes – and the odd adorable puffin or two. Leroy’s work aims to inspire humans to reconsider their relationship with nature, particularly when confronted with its enormity and unpredictability. We spoke with Leroy about his photography journey and how the untamed landscapes of his new home, along with the support and encouragement of the wider photographic community, have inspired his creative endeavors.

How did you get into photography?

In 2018 I moved from The Netherlands to Iceland, it was a very impulsive move, but it might be one of the best decisions I have made so far in my life. In that first year, I went on many road trips around the country and took all my photos with just my smartphone. I wanted to share all the incredible views with my family and friends abroad.

Then I got so into it that I decided to buy my first professional camera in early 2020, which was the Fujifilm XT30. After extensive research, I figured this was the camera that would fit me the most. The overall look, size, physical dials, and astonishing straight-out-of-camera shots were all factors that pleased me a lot. After just a few months, I sold the XT30 and opted for the XT3 and X100V, which are now my main weapons alongside my DJI Air 2S.

Dark waterfall in Iceland

How did you turn your hobby photography into a profession?

After posting my photos on different social media channels, I noticed that there was a lot of positive feedback on my work, not only from my family and friends but also from many other creatives out there in the world. This motivated me to create more content since it was inspiring others. I really felt my work was appreciated. Not long after, I started being recognized as a photographer in Iceland, and that opened doors to the world of freelancing.

All of a sudden, I was receiving inquiries for event, portrait, and food photography shoots. I was super stoked about it, but I figured I needed a speedlight, especially with studio work. So I purchased the Godox V1 and a softbox. After many sleepless nights and hours of watching YouTube videos on how to work with flash, I practiced and became more and more confident in using it. That’s when I knew I was ready to take on paid jobs.

How would you describe your photography style?

My usual landscape/nature work has a raw and moody vibe, I would say. Since my ancestors grew up in the Maluku Islands and I am now living in Iceland, I want to show how that feels for someone who still has tropical genes running through his body. I try to capture that raw and moody feeling that the nature in Iceland gives me through my work.

How do you capture your subjects?

The lenses I use the most when going out for nature shots are the Fujinon 10-24mm and the Fujinon 70-300mm. I enjoy capturing wide, but I also love to zoom in and isolate a subject. It depends on how I feel in that moment, I am constantly looking around for things that catch my eye and switch lenses quickly when needed.

What is some advice you have for up-and-coming landscape photographers?

A major tip for any landscape photographer just starting out is to learn how to read the histogram on your camera screen. In the very beginning, I had no clue how it worked, so I just shot photos like there was no tomorrow, only to figure out afterward that I had completely blown out the highlights or crushed the shadows and there was nothing to recover. Do not rely solely on your eyes or your LCD screen on this one. Just make sure the histogram graph doesn’t spike all the way to the left or right but try to keep it all even and balanced in the middle where possible.

And invest in a tripod. You’ll thank me later when you discover the world of long exposures. It also gives you that extra stability for example if you need to lower your shutter speed in case of a low light situation.

Why do you use Capture One?

Capture One has been my main editing software since I began my photography journey. I tried several different programs and I noticed that Capture One handled Fuji files the best. The fact that it offers tethered shooting is also a big plus for my studio work. The layer system is also convenient to have. Plus, the color editor is one of the most advanced I have seen and a real joy to work with as a photographer.

The new HDR and Pano tools are a blast to use. I can finally stitch photos together and use the HDR merge to create shots I couldn’t take before. It works super easy and is so convenient – I really can’t wait to produce more content through these new tools.

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capture one webinar using layers part 1

Using Layers (Part 1)

Make the most of Layers with this in-depth look at Capture One’s layering capabilities – which have grown significantly over the past few years. In this two-part series, we’ll cover everything you need to know about using layers in Capture One, to make your editing more useful and targeted.

In the first part, we’ll walk you through:

  • The concept of Layers
  • Different ways to draw masks
  • Brush settings like Hardness and Flow
  • Style Brushes

Download a 30-day trial of Capture One.

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