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Hands peeling a tangerine against a blue background. Photo by Manyi Chan, edited in Capture One Pro

RAW Talent with Manyi Chan

Having a tendency for introversion and quiet observing, Hong Kong-born photography student Manyi Chan leans into these personality traits with her work. This has resulted in a unique, quiet personal expression in her images, in which she explores topics like her own relationship with food, sexual fantasy, and violence within her specific cultural context as an East Asian woman.

We had a talk with Manyi about how she is finding her voice as a photographer, who she looks up to, and what advice she has for others just entering the world of photography.

Hands peeling a tangerine against a blue background. Photo by photography student Manyi Chan, edited in Capture One Pro

Tell us, how did you first get interested in photography as a form of artistic expression?

Since middle school, I’ve been an extremely introverted person, spending much of my time alone and in silence, observing the surroundings and researching material, texture, functionality, and composition of things around me. My interest in photography appeared to come naturally. When I first got a smartphone in high school, I began to take pictures everywhere and intend to record all the intricacies of life that I noticed.

Later on, when I entered the foundation course of university, my love for photography became clearer, and I started to learn how to express myself via the lens. That is when I realized that taking photographs was an integral part of my life, and it really brings me a lot of energy.

You often reference your cultural identity as an East Asian woman. How do you articulate that sense of identity in your photos?

I feel that a person’s personality can be greatly revealed in their photographs. My quiet, bashful personality full of emotions, influenced by the typical environment I grew up in, can probably be seen in my work – in which Chinese culture is dominated by Confucianism, Buddhism, Taoism, etc.; people like to present ambiguity and vagueness as a symbol of beauty. It is always about obscurity, an indirect expression of emotion that will face restriction and injunction.

My present concentration is mostly on myself: confusion about self-identity, family, and intimate relationships, as well as geographical and cultural research of my home region. In the process of creating work, I am in deep communication with myself, which makes me inevitably constantly aware of the unique perspective and ways of thinking that comes with my cultural identity as an East Asian female.

You speak of yourself as an observer. When you play the observer through your camera and lens, what fascinates you?

Light and shadow play important roles in many of my works. As I always say — light makes familiar things unfamiliar, and unfamiliar things become familiar. It elevates the mundane and creates countless illusions.

My favorite approach to photography is to leave ‘blank’, to capture just the hazy feelings of the moment, and in this way, guide the viewer into the story I have created. A pair of slender hands peeling a fresh orange, a potted plant lying quietly underwater, the blurred silhouette of a girl with braids gazing at a street scene through an inverted fish tank. The fragmented visual language, on the other hand, is more likely to resonate with the audience, prompting them to add their subjective memories to it. In my sense, photography is a form of expression that is based on the genuine world but is more than that; it can be both deceptive and poetic, and this fascinates me.

 

See how Manyi edits her photos, controlling colors and smoothing out skin tones to bring the scene to life.

You’ve used a very interesting phrase: “The moments made of light are pieced together into rhythms that comprise my existence”. Can you explain what you mean by that?

Having my camera pointing to the world feels like writing a diary to me. It’s not about documenting, but also not fabricated indeed – and I was obsessed with this feeling. Once I realized this, I began to consciously look around me for scenes that flowed without any overly clear clues. These short and punchy rhymes shot by myself construct the ideal life that possibly exists in my mind.

I was always concerned about the importance of everydayness through imagery. Through deconstructing and reconstructing the ‘taken for granted fact’, I wish to bridge the gap between myself and the world, to establish a new position in these times of uncertainty and social upheaval.

How would you describe your style? What do you think is its most distinctive characteristic right now?

Perhaps because I have been studying oil painting since I was small, I become very sensitive to color, composition, and contrast of light in the frame. The rich, natural color and clean atmosphere are what I preferred. For me, photography is similar to composing poetry in that I leave logic and notions aside and live lyrically in daily life – the objective things being captured contain all of my feelings.

If I were to characterize my style, I would say it is calm, with enough space for breathing; I hope it serves as a blanket that can bring people warmth and healing.

How has studying at London College of Communication (LCC) helped you become a better photographer?

The photography course at LCC encompasses not only the study of visual communication but also of culture, history, and contemporary society. I learned how to understand art and photography from a philosophical, sociological, and psychological standpoint. The critique sessions between peers and tutorials are also really beneficial.

I think the most important thing that the university brings me is the platform it provides – a chance to study abroad here in London, get to know what the industry looks like, meet lots of interesting people, and so on.

How do you see your career evolving? What excites you the most when you think about the photographic industry?

The opportunity to connect with audiences at exhibitions and fairs is what I treasure a lot. Each time when I receive comments like ‘I was healed by your works,’ ‘I felt empathy,’ or ‘I was driven by you to start photography,’ it makes me extremely pleased.

Since last year, I started exploring fashion photography and portraiture, as well as receiving commissions. I think the most challenging thing in commercial photography would be learning how to perfectly blend your personal style with the client’s requirements. It does bring a sense of achievement when I have completed a piece of work that both sides are happy with.

On a different note, how would you say Capture One integrates in your workflow?

I was first introduced to Capture One when assisting a fashion photographer on a shoot, and it made me realize the importance of tethering in commercial photography. Since then, I’ve always used Capture One for tethering, especially while shooting in the studio. It does not only give clients a preview of the images at first glance but also contains strong compatibility with raw files.

I always require a high level of color accuracy in my workflow, and its color editing system and brush function allow me to polish every detail in the photo — and it’s also very handy for batch coloring in post-production.

Do you have any photographers you look up to?

There are definitely lots of them, but the very first few photographers that come to my mind would be Yoshiyuki Okuyama, Takeshi Sumi, Glen Luchford, Erik Kessels, and Ryoji Akiyama.

Finally, what would be your advice for young photographers like yourself that are just starting out?

Stay honest with yourself – that’s probably the best advice I can give. Photography, or art, for me, is probably about expressing 100% of myself. I truly believe that as long as you keep creating with sincerity, passion, and courage, you will eventually find your own unique style and audience.

Also, it is essential to take a rest when you’re feeling tired and anxious. Social media is a good place for emerging photographers to be seen and contains tons of possibilities, but it’s not everything; focusing on the subject you care about and what you want to do as a priority is the most important thing.

See more of Manyi’s work on her Instagram


 

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Images by Recently graduated photographer Ville Makarainen

RAW Talent with Ville Mäkäräinen

Once on the verge of giving up on his dream of becoming a photographer after a particularly disheartening experience at a photoshoot, recent photography graduate Ville Mäkäräinen is now more determined than ever to carve out a space for himself in the world of photography.

We spoke to Ville about how his love for skateboarding and run on Finland’s Next Top Model led him to where he is today and the anxiety and excitement of taking the leap into a new profession.

I’d like to start by asking you about your origin story. How did you get into photography?

It all started when I was a kid and skateboarding a lot. Me and my friends wanted to get new tricks on tape and as the creative child, I was often the one picking up the camera. It was my dad’s camera, which was probably one of the first digital cameras that could record video.

Fisheye lens is a big deal in skateboarding, and I remember taping up a peephole right on the lens, probably leaving a ton of scratches. We used that camera a lot and after abusing it for a while, my dad got a new DSLR which I later stole again for my projects. After a few years of mostly doing videos, my interest in photos started growing.

I did my military service in a unit called Combat Camera, basically being a war photographer. There we travelled around Finland participating in different trainings and documenting them. I really enjoyed my time there and my interest in photography just kept on growing.

Right before the military, I attended a TV show called Finland’s Next Top Model. My modelling career didn’t really blow up after it but that’s where I got introduced to the world of fashion photography. And I’ve kept that with me ever since and it is everything I want to do nowadays.

You’ve said that you weren’t sure about getting a photography education. Now, you’ve just graduated from Fotoskolan STHLM in Sweden. What made you change your mind?

My earlier experiences of school were really bad. I remember promising myself after high school to never do anything school related ever again. Once I also got to do a lot of photography and be around it for a while, I started romanticizing the word “self-taught”.

Photography educations were disappearing from Finland, and I was thinking that no one really needs them anyways. Everything can be learned from YouTube and how could anyone even teach me how to be creative. Oh boy was I wrong.

Then after my first time assisting, I realized how much there was to be learned. I remember being so disappointed in myself afterwards that I ended up taking a year-long break from photography.

I started working as a flight attendant and enjoyed it for sure. But when the pandemic hit, I felt such a relief being laid off. I moved to Sweden to be together with my partner and felt like I needed something to keep me active. I also had zero friends, so I had to find a solution for all that.

Then the uncomfortable idea of applying to a school arose and after a few hours of Googling I had Fotoskolan STHLM in front of my eyes. I was still doubting it being a good idea, but I applied anyway. I’m glad I did because I can tell you that it was one of the best decisions of my life. It got me going in the right direction with photography and closer to my dreams for sure. Without that school I would probably be back flying.

Follow along Ville’s editing process to transform the colors in his photo. 

How did the education at Fotoskolan STHLM impact your journey?

In tons of different ways that I didn’t even think it would. First of all, it brought me to a group of amazing and talented photographers – my classmates. I could always get my ideas to another level by brainstorming with them and I felt like the creative atmosphere in our class really affected the way of my working. School made me ask myself questions, why I do something in the way I do and look at my photos in a more critical way.

During my education was also the time I got familiar with Capture One and adopted it as my favorite tool in the process of making photos.

I learned that there are many ways of working in photography, for example assisting, which I’ve now started to see as a great career option and an amazing way to grow my wings in this industry. I feel like I can almost get the same kick as an assistant as I would as a photographer. I see myself working mainly as an assistant for a few years from now on while I build my portfolio to then become a full-time photographer.

You’ve said that you try to express beauty in weird and unconventional ways in your photos. Could you elaborate on that?

There are so many ways to express beauty and I am experimenting with ways that maybe are not the most “typical” ways of doing it. I don’t mind if the make-up gets messy or the hair is all over the place, those pictures I often end up liking the most.

I can’t really say what beauty exactly is, but I guess everyone sees it a bit differently. Some might think beauty is perfect lines and smooth surfaces. In my eyes it is when things get a little rough around the edges.

I guess some of it might come from me trying to prove something to myself. I had severe acne as a teenager that left my face full of scars. During my short career of modelling, that was something that made me really insecure. In my work I’m basically battling with my own issues of self-acceptance.

How would you describe your style?

It is always difficult to look at my pictures from a “third person view”, but I could say I’m quite experimental in my photography. It might be because of my journey being in an early stage still finding its form, but I love experimenting with new ideas and techniques and I hope I always will. I feel like I get inspired by so many things and I want to try them all at once.

I could also describe my style as being surrealistic. Usually, I’m not satisfied with just a picture and usually go further in post-production with Photoshop or even a pair of scissors.

One of my big inspirations has been a French photographer Claude Cahun who made a great impact in my way of processing pictures.

You’ve focused on different aspects of photography during your journey, from being lead photographer to assisting and digiteching, you’ve done a bit of everything. How did all these experiences influence your practice?

Trying all these roles has helped me to relate and understand everyone involved. As an assistant I can put myself in photographer’s shoes and understand how stressful it can sometimes be when you feel like everything is on your shoulders.

As a photographer I get the importance of communication and want to be clear about everything during the whole shoot and also appreciate the difference it makes to the whole workflow when all the files are in the right places with the right names. Everyone plays such a role and a missing member in the team is like running without shoes, it is possible but definitely painful.

I’ve also discovered how important making a look that is applied to the pictures during the shoot is. As the camera is tethered and images roll in, your team will already get an idea of the final product when there is a look that kind of covers the RAW file. It is also easier to make changes to the look and tweak it to the direction everyone hoped for when everyone in the team is present.

Shifting gear now, what role does Capture One play in your process?

I have Capture One as a huge part of my process and can’t think of working without it. As an assistant and digitech, it is where I spend most of my time.

I start the shoot with creating a new session and making the folders we need. During the shoot I make sure everything looks as it should and that the file names are right and everything ends up in the right place.

When it’s my own project I always make a look on the pictures that is as close to the planned final result as possible. Then in the end I process the images from Capture One to the desired format.

Also, I have never experienced any other good way of tethering. In the work I do, which is mostly in studio, tethering is essential, which makes this program a must have. Capture One has such a great variety of tools so I can use it almost from start to finish during the process. It is only the more advanced retouch I do in Photoshop. I would say that I do 80% of the photos in Capture One.

What aspects of working with the software do you like the most?

The software is handy in many ways, and I appreciate its versatility and smooth interaction with other programs. But I’m personally having the most fun with the creative part of Capture One which is making looks and manipulating colors.

The interface is easy on the eye and yet has so many functions that I feel like I still have a lot to discover. And that’s what makes it so fun, the fact that no matter how hard I push it, it still has a lot to give. The way it handles color is amazing and being able to affect every little detail in kind of a playful way makes my inner nerd cry of happiness.

Also, I have to mention the way Capture One organizes all the files in the session folders is just underrated. It helps the workflow a lot and makes doing backups better. Also adding and removing folders in the capture folder is super easy and works great together with Finder.

In your opinion, what are some of the most inspirational photographers out there right now?

For the past few years, I have been really inspired by a Paris-based Finnish fashion photographer Osma Harvilahti. I love the color palette in his work and how the pictures feel alive. He also has this surrealistic touch on his work that really makes the photos interesting, and it is always exciting to see what he comes up with. I think it is also him being a fellow Finn that makes me appreciate him a little extra.

On the analogue side I have gotten a lot of inspiration from a Danish fashion photographer Daniel Stjerne whose peaceful style got me thinking that less is more. Then on the digital side the New York-based fashion and beauty photographer Mikael Schulz. His creativity shines during the shoots, and he brings the best sides out from everyone. His crisp and playful style really influenced my photography especially on the beauty side. He is not only a great photographer but also a very inspiring human being.

Finally, what’s your advice for young photographers like yourself that are just starting out?

It feels funny to give advice to anyone being in a big need of it myself. But I guess what I’ve learned so far is how important it is to have fun. Sounds very obvious but I really have to remind myself of this quite often.

You probably chose this career because it is your dream job, so don’t get too corporate with it. Keep in mind why you’re doing it and let loose. Don’t be scared of screwing up because sooner or later you are going to do it. It is actually the best way to learn. If you really want to stand out, then there is no safe road. And if you’re in school right now then it is the best time to test your limits.

Also, what I struggled with a lot, and still do at times, is comparing myself with others, often to people who have been in the industry for a lot longer than I have. Don’t do that, it is only going to make you stressed and uninspired. Keep your eyes on your own road and again try to think why the people who inspire you are so amazing. They are most likely not trying to be like everyone else, so why should you.

Your mom was right, you are beautiful and amazing and with the talent you have you can do anything. You’re doing great sweetie!!

 


 

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Day in the life of a photographer at Copenhagen Fashion Week

While still in the shadow of its more established New York, London, Paris or Milan counterparts, Copenhagen Fashion Week has, for the past few years, carved out a place for itself in the fashion world as a front-runner in sustainability and is turning heads among trendsetters and influential personalities within the industry.

As more people open their eyes to the trends coming out of the Danish capital, the photographers who are there to capture the latest designs, street style, and behind-the-scenes moments are busier than ever.

We followed local fashion photographer Mark Dexter who pulls up the curtain on what it is like being a photographer during fashion week in Copenhagen and the new tools that let him go from location to location without stop.

 

On a misty February morning on the streets of Copenhagen, the sun is slowly starting to peek out between the buildings, hinting at the first signs of spring after a long and dark Scandinavian winter.

“The weather can be really bad some days. Especially during winter, you don’t want to be outside in the cold and rain, waiting around with your gear. But the show must go on,” says Mark Dexter, referring to the one part of shooting at Copenhagen Fashion Week that he is less excited about.

The Filipino-Australian fashion photographer has been living in Copenhagen for the past decade, becoming a part of the Danish fashion scene through shooting campaigns and editorials with brands and magazines.

“In their natural habitat”

Today he’s on a busy schedule. Starting the day together with Fumina Tsuji, who is covering the events of the week for ELLE Japan and her thousands of Instagram followers and attending every single runway show. Together they are capturing her and other influencers, journalists, and industry people’s best street style as they move from one show to the next, changing outfits along the way to get the most out of the celebration of fashion happening all across the city.

“I wanna try and catch my subject in their natural habitat, hitting their strides. You’ll get a sense of confidence,” Mark says.

“Being part of an event that’s full of creative people and free to express themselves in any way is the best. Some are luxurious, some are outrageous, but it’s all individual, unique taste.”

From capture to published in minutes

Following Fumina as she moves down the streets of Copenhagen, Mark is shooting tethered directly from his Fuji XH2S into Capture One for iPad. With his assistant staying close, holding the tethered iPad, Mark moves around freely while capturing Fumina and the rest of the audience getting ready for the next show. Occasionally he stops to review the images on his tablet.

“At this point, I probably don’t have a style, but at the same time, I’m analyzing my images to look for consistency in them.”

With a few quick edits, Mark exports and airdrops the images to his subjects, making them ready for publishing online in just a few minutes.

“It’s amazing that I can check the pictures of me taken by a professional photographer via iPad, select my favorite one, and post it on my social media literally without waiting,” says Fumina, who is sharing moments from the day as she goes with her followers on Instagram.

The devil is in the details

It’s time to move on to the next assignment. At one of the week’s highly anticipated shows by Danish clothing brand Wood Wood, Mark has been called in to capture the anticipation and buzz backstage as the models get ready for the runway.

“I am looking for details,” Mark explains. “If you can get access to backstage, then you have a bit more edge over your competition for obvious reasons. Here you can capture all sorts of angles and energy. Details of the garments, pieces, and hairstyles, you’re basically part of the process leading up to the show.”

With the iPad still tethered to his camera, Mark reviews the images with the client and makes a rough selection before the main event starts and the models line up to enter the runway in front of the expectant crowd.

“A good workflow is essential”

Wrapping up the shooting part of the day, Mark joins the crowd of photographers that have gathered at the end of the runway to get the best shots of the new styles coming towards them.

With the last shot of the day in the bag, Mark does a final review of the images before packing up.

“A day at fashion week is so hectic. So many angles to cover, not just in the shooting and framing sense. A lot of preparation, coordinating, movement, and people management goes into it.”

“So a good workflow is essential.”

See more of Mark’s work on his website.

 


 

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Behind the image – 10 minutes with Mads Mikkelsen

There is pressure in photographing one of your idols. Having only 10 minutes to set up and get multiple good shots of your idol takes that pressure to a different level. On assignment for Scandinavian Traveler (the in-flight magazine for Scandinavian Airlines), Danish portrait photographer Andreas Houmann took on the challenge of getting a cover and a spread of the world-famous actor Mads Mikkelsen while working against the clock. 

Join us behind the image with Andreas as he shares how he spent 10 hours preparing for the 10-minute shoot and got what he needed without compromising on his vision.

Let’s start from the beginning. What was the brief you had for this job?

The brief was quite open because it was my first assignment for [Scandianvian Traveler], but they had seen many of my images and liked my style. So, it was up to me to create what I wanted.

I was told that I would have 10 minutes with the actor Mads Mikkelsen. From that, they wanted a cover shot and five to six images for the article.

My first thought was that that’s impossible. But after thinking about it, I realized what a great experience it could be. Mads has always been one of the top Danish people I want to meet and create a great image with. So, I told them I’d do it.

How did you go about planning the shoot?

Even though I knew I would only have 10 minutes, I didn’t lower my expectations for the final result. But to be able to create something special in such a short time, I knew that I had to plan everything down to the tiniest detail.

The most important thing for me was to not create an image of Mads that you have seen before. When you photograph famous people, they’re often just as cool as they seem. And so, I could have just taken a photo of him on a white or black background where he’s just looking into the camera, and that would also be a great and cool image. But I wanted to add something more.

Therefore, I knew I had to plan everything very thoroughly. I started to create a mood board, searching to see which kinds of images already existed of Mads.

I also knew that we would be at the d’Angleterre hotel in Copenhagen. I was told that we had a suite, but not which suite. So, I checked all the images of all the suites on their website.

With so little time, it was important to me that we had a controlled setting where I would know which kind of light and background I would have to work with. When you only have 10 minutes, you can’t wait for the sun to appear. So the day before, I went to the hotel to search for any cool places inside.

I was also talking with Mikkelsen’s PR manager, who told me that if I needed to set up any equipment, it would be a part of that 10 minutes. And at that time, I had planned that I could come three hours before with my team, and we could set up and test everything in the suite before Mads would arrive.

So change of plans. Now the question was, “How could I still create a studio setting without using any of those 10 minutes?”

Because I had to use all the time together with Mads in front of my camera, we had prepared the background to fit exactly into the space. So, when Mads arrived, my assistant could quickly pull up the background while I was saying hello and presenting the idea. He’s such a kind person. So, it was important for him also to say hello to my assistant as well. And then we started shooting.

Did you know what kind of shots you wanted to get before the shoot?

I have a folder with over 5,000 pictures in it, and whenever I see an image I like, I save it and put it into that folder. It could be an interesting pose, something about the colors – it can be anything, but it goes in there so that I have an inspiration folder with only good images to get ideas from.

I have always been a fan of hands and faces, and I knew I wanted to create something with the hand and the face.

What was going through your mind during the actual shoot?

In my head, I knew that I couldn’t use the 10 minutes in front of the background because then I wouldn’t have anything else to show.

So, because I was aware of the time limit, I told my assistant to let me know when the first two minutes had passed. I had said to myself that four minutes was the limit for when I had to move on to the next setting to get the images for the spread inside the magazine.

In the end, it only took us two minutes to get this image. I had shown Mads the mood board to explain my thinking. That’s the great thing about working with artists and actors; they are professionals, so he got it right away.

What kind of direction did you give him?

He liked the idea of the hand, and I asked him to drag his hand from the top of his head down across his face because I like to have movement in my photos. It looks more natural than just standing there with his hand covering his face.

I want to create a space for the talent or the model to have free movement on a shoot. It’s very, very important that you, as a photographer, let the model or the talent know what you want to create and help them. But still, on the shoot, it is also important that you capture what comes in between. I always end up going for the in-between shots.

That’s often when you get the magical and personal shots.

 


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What equipment did you use?

I used my Canon RS with a 50-millimeter lens and only had one light – a Profoto B10 with a beauty dish.

What settings did you use to get the shot?

F./5,6
1/200 sek
Iso:160

What have you done to the photo in post-processing?

I did some minor retouching of the skin. He’s a good-looking guy, so it didn’t take much. But I liked the idea of making it black and white and keeping the minimal colors.

Did you work with anyone else to get this photo?

I had an assistant with me on this shoot. The support of having a person I trust a 100% at my side who has their eyes on the lights so that I can focus on shooting is great.

When working with my assistant, stylists, makeup, or fashion stylists, it’s important to me that everyone is part of the team. Because if everyone on set is having a great time, then everyone wants to do the best thing to succeed. The atmosphere is just much nicer to be in, also for the talent or the model or the actor.

I let them know that if they have any great ideas or see something that I don’t see, to let me know because I only have two eyes.

You have a lot of experience working with well-known people. What is the secret to getting a good shot of them?

I always see the model or the talent as equal to anyone else. Even if it is one of my idols, I always meet the person in the same way. I let them know that my only goal is to create the best image and show them that I am well prepared. And when you do that, they relax.

I always let them know what my plan is and tell them that if they don’t like some of my ideas or have any comments, they should let me know. I like to let them be a part of the decisions. But still letting them know that I know what to do.

I also like reading articles about the person I am photographing, and I often try to go back and see what they have said and done in the past. It’s easy for everyone to know what is going on right now. But knowing something that is not just about the new film they’re making, showing that you have done some research, tells them that you’re willing to go a little bit further to get a good shot.

A picture says a thousand words. What do you think this image says?

I think this picture is more of a mood than a story. It wasn’t important for me to create an image with a particular story here. I’m very much into aesthetics, authenticity, and presence. Those were the three main goals for me in the picture.

And what I really like about this picture – and maybe it is something I always like – is that you don’t see everything. Because, as a person, it’s rare that we just give away everything. So, when Mads is holding his hand in front of his face, it’s like, “I’m here, but a part of me is not,” and I really like that.

How does this image represent your work as a whole? Is it representative?

Yes, I think this image represents well who I am as a photographer, both in style and mood. I’m not creating images with a lot going on in them. I really like the calmness. I really like a lot of the great old photographers, Peter Lindbergh and people like that. Because when you look at their pictures, they were cool 30 years ago, 20 years ago, ten years ago, and they’re cool today. They have that simplicity, which is not just a trend.

 

Follow Andreas on Instagram to see more of his work

 


 

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