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Meet Felix – Small worlds, endless possibilities

The beautiful image, Myth Mountain, and dedication story by Felix Hernandez has taken first place in Capture Dedication Competition.

 

My inspiration

I remember as a child I used to spend hours alone in my room playing with my toys. I also remember that the best part was customizing them and creating worlds where they could exist. Now that I am “grown-up” I realize that I never stopped playing and that the only difference is that now I do it with a camera in my hands.

Photography and digital art have given me the possibility to bring scenes of my childhood imagination to life. Photographing scaled models is not so different from other disciplines of photography, but it has its peculiarities. You have to think big, but at the same time small. The possibilities are endless and there are no recipes. You just have to use your imagination.

In some ways I feel like a landscape photographer, which I’m not. I also feel like a portrait photographer, and again, I’m not. I think I’m a product photographer, but… I’m not! So, what am I? To me, it doesn’t matter. I love all kinds of photography disciplines and techniques, because mixing them allows me to create my own vision and share my stories. Photography and digital art have given me the possibility to bring to life those scenes I had in my head as a kid.

 

Behind the image

Myth Mountain was the last photo I did of the series ‘Troopers’, using the Black Series Star Wars figures and for it I wanted to do something different. Before Myth Mountain, all of my photos were done in the studio, and in many cases I inserted stock images for the backgrounds. For this last image I wanted to capture the scene for real.

I went to Los Cabos where I knew I would find the kind of rocks I was looking for. I needed them in the water, not because I wanted to do a sea scene, but because I wanted to give the effect of heavy mist or fog. To accomplish that I used a long exposure shot which would convert the water movement into heavy, low fog. I didn’t care about the over exposed sky since having it almost white would help to integrate all the images better.

I tried for over four days to get the shots on location since I was looking for a soft light. For that, I needed an overcast day. The quality of light is very important to tell a story as it sets the mood. In the studio it’s easy because you’re in control of it. But on location you have to seek, wait, and be patient. Sometimes you have to keep going back to the same spot for several days until the conditions are just right for what you are looking for.

 

Bringing the imagination to life

Myth Mountain is a mix of studio and landscape photography. I used a total of five different photos and composed them into one:

  • Three photos in studio. I focus stacked the Storm Trooper to get everything sharp.
  • Two long exposure photos for the landscape done at Los Cabos.

For the production in the studio I used common products:

  • A rock
  • Wheat flour for the “snow”
  • Smoke for the ambience

Setting the scene

I love photo manipulation and digital art. But if you can do most of your project in camera, it enriches the final product in many ways. It’s not only fun, it also gives the image a more realistic look.

For example, if your model is in the snow, use your imagination and create a snow scene. I use wheat flour to create snow. If I need to create a desert, I use corn flour. If I want to add some atmosphere, I use smoke from a cigarette. You don’t have to smoke, but I have found that it’s the best way to control small amounts of smoke and put them where you want. To get rainy days, I spray water mist. If I want to make droplets, I use corn syrup and if I want to freeze something, I use compressed air. You can use fog machines, wind machines, dry ice, etc.

The possibilities are endless and there is no recipe. Use your imagination and try different things. Most of the stuff you will need are at home or at the store around the corner. Be creative!

Production materials

Getting the scale right

Scale is one of the most important aspects. If what you want is to give a sense of realism to your scaled models, you will need in many cases to get closer with your camera. You could think that using a Macro lens would do the job, but the problem with Macro lenses is that they have a shallow depth of field. That means that you will only have a shallow focus plane and the rest of your subject and scene will be out of focus. That would be a downfall for our purpose in making small scale models look real. That’s the way our brain has been taught to perceive scale. In the case of the Storm Trooper, I had to do focus stacking. Below is one of the photos I used.

Storm trooper model

Capturing the light

I shoot my models by mixing studio flashes, light painting techniques, or natural light. It could be similar to shooting a product, but again, if you want to give the sense of realism you have to think in scale. It’s not the same to shoot a real human model with an octabox than to shoot a scaled model with the same octabox. The quality of the light would be softer as the light source is bigger when used with a scaled model. So, all the basics of lighting in studio or at location will apply but take them to a smaller scale.

 

Finalizing the work

Post production will give the final punch to your image. Here you can insert elements to your backgrounds, objects that complement your story telling, effects that could be complex to do in camera, or add a sense of motion, color grade for the mood, etc.

For me, photography is a mixture of playing with different techniques and disciplines. The technical aspect can be learned relatively easily, but the hard part is hidden in our minds and in our hearts. It’s a matter of staying childish and curious. It’s about re-learning how to play like you did when you were a child.

 

Myth Mountain

 

 

More of Felix Hernandez’s work:

 

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Capture One tips and tricks

11+1 tips and tricks for Capture One

NOTE: This article discusses an outdated version of Capture One. To learn more about our latest version, click here.

Following the previous blog post about 11 tips and tricks for Capture One, here is another post stuffed with tips and tricks to ease your workflow!

If you don’t already own Capture One, download a 30-day trial and follow along.

 

1. Apply a Style or Preset as a Layer

Capture One 11.1 introduced a simple way of applying a Style or Preset as a Layer.*

Right-clicking a Style or Preset will open a menu, allowing different options. Selecting ‘Apply to New Layer’ will create a new Layer with the name and adjustments of the Style or Preset. From the Layers tool, you can now adjust the opacity of this Layer, controlling the impact.

Static Image
Applying a Style as a Layer and changing the opacity

 

*This feature requires that the tools included in the Style or Preset work on Layers. Black & White, Film Grain, Basic Color Editor, Vignetting among others don’t work on Layers. If a Style includes tools that don’t work on Layers, a warning will show.

 

2. Show / hide / move the Browser, Tools and Viewer

Shortcuts in Capture One are among those things many photographers don’t take the time to learn. Continuously investing time in learning, remembering and using shortcuts will inevitably improve your workflow.

Here are five of my personal favorite shortcuts that quickly make the interface of Capture One highly dynamic and flexible:

  • [Cmd / Ctrl + b] : Show/hide the Browser
  • [Cmd / Ctrl + t] : Show/hide the Tools
  • [Cmd / Ctrl + Shift + b] : Switch the Browser below/to the side
  • [Cmd / Ctrl + Shift + t] : Switch the Tools left/right
  • [Cmd / Ctrl + Alt + v] : Show/hide the Viewer

Like any shortcut in Capture One, these can be customized:

Mac: Capture One 11 > Edit Keyboard Shortcuts…
Win: Edit > Edit Keyboard Shortcuts…

 

3. Adding the same tool multiple times

Are you tired of switching back and forth between the RGB and Luma curve? Or maybe the Shadow, Midtone and Highlight in Color Balance? Fear not, this trick will help!

As the interface of Capture One is customizable, you can simply add the same tool multiple times and have them next to each other. You can do this in the current Tool Tabs or create your own. Right click anywhere in an empty space in a Tool Tab to add new tools.

Static Image
Adding the same tool multiple times

 

4. Film Curve – Extra Shadow

Some images are a bit heavy on the contrast or saturation straight out of camera with the Auto curve applied. This is of course a subjective matter, but if you like your images to have a slightly more flat starting point, there is a trick for that!

In the Color Tool Tab, go to Base Characteristics. Change the Curve from ‘Auto’ to ‘Film Extra Shadow’. This will provide a starting point with less contrast. Bringing back the same contrast level if needed is a quick pull in the Contrast slider or some Levels adjustments.

This Film Curve can be saved as a default option for your camera, which is applied when importing images going forward. Go the tool submenu [•••] and select ‘Save as Defaults for…’

Film curves - Auto vs. Film Extra Shadow

 

5. Two different Auto Levels methods

Auto Levels (the tiny ‘A’ in the top right of the Levels tool) is a quick method of getting a fairly decent contrast with a single click. Within ‘Preferences > Exposure’, you can select between two different channel modes:

RGB Channel: Will move the RGB channel, affecting overall contrast and luminosity.

Red, Green and Blue Channels: Will move the channels individually, affecting contrast and correcting for any color cast there might be present in shadows, midtones or highlights.

Auto Levels channel modes

The Clipping Thresholds can also be set from the preferences, allowing control over the strength of the Auto Levels adjustments.

Auto Levels

 

6. Select by filename list

You send a large number of images to a client for them to make a list of their picks. You get a list of filenames back in an email. How do you most easily find those images in your Session / Catalog? Select by filename list.

Go to Edit > Select By > Filename List… and copy the filenames into this window. Click OK, and the images from the list are instantly selected within your active album/folder. With this selection you can simply give the images a rating, color tag or create a new Album (Right Click > Create Albums From > Selection…) for further processing.

You can create keyboard shortcuts for both ‘Select By Filename List’ and ‘Create Albums From Selection’. With this workflow, selecting and managing any number of images from a filename list will take as little as 15 seconds.

Select by filename list

 

7. Single Pixel noise reduction

Within Noise Reduction, there is a slider called ‘Single Pixel’. This will take care of most instances of hot pixels in your images. A hot pixel is a dead pixel on your camera sensor that typically shows up as pure white.

Static Image
Single Pixel Noise Reduction – Removing hot pixels

 

 

8. Advanced Color Editor, hue rotation

If you’re familiar with the Advanced Color Editor, you might have encountered the limit of 30 degrees with the Hue slider. Does this mean you cannot change a color range more than 30 degrees around the hue wheel? Nope, there is a trick!

The tool allows up to 30 color picks – per layer. With this in mind, you can simply pick the color range again (and again and again…) and change the Hue in the same direction, effectively pushing the change 30 degrees per color pick.

The reasoning behind the 30 degrees limit is to make sure precise adjustments are fast and easy.

Color Editor Hue Rotation

 

9. Crop settings

In ‘Preferences > Crop’ you can decide what to show and when to show it when working with the Crop Tool. You can mix and match your settings as desired. The easiest way of finding out what works for you is to select an image, select the Crop Tool and make a tight crop, then go to Preferences without switching to another cursor tool.

Static Image
Changing the Crop Tool visuals

 

 

10. Sub Folders in Process Recipes

If you use Process Recipes (if not, then you should!), you might have seen the field ‘Sub Folder’. It’s a nifty little feature that allows you to specify a sub folder for each recipe, automatically placing images exported with the recipe in the respected sub folder. You can, for example, add a ‘TIFF’ sub folder for your TIFF recipe and a ‘JPG Preview’ sub folder for your small resolution JPG recipe.

Process Recipe Sub Folder

 

 

11. Toggle cursor tools with the same shortcut

This is not specific to Capture One, but the trick to toggle between cursor tools with the same shortcut is to hold down Shift as well. For example, toggling between the rotation cursor tools is [Shift + r].

Toggle rotation cursor tools

12. Creating custom ICC profiles

Is the skin tone of a specific camera model too red, or do you need the blues of another camera to be permanently less saturated?

If you are unhappy with a color profile of a supported camera model in Capture One, you can create your own. Any color adjustments made in the Color Editor can be saved as a custom ICC profile and used on future images.

To learn more about how the Color Editor works, you can watch the webinar, Color Editor Master Class (60 minutes).

Static Image
Saving and using a custom ICC profile

 

What are your favorite tricks in Capture One?

If you missed it in the beginning, here are another 11 tips and tricks for Capture One.

If you don’t already own Capture One, you can download a 30-day trial and discover the power of it!

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Why shoot RAW?

NOTE: This article discusses an older version of Capture One. To learn more about our latest version, click here.

RAW image files are sometimes referred to as ‘digital negatives’ because they save the data obtained from the camera sensor as information that can be converted into an image. The data is unprocessed and requires a RAW converter to transform it into an image.
What you have with a RAW capture is an incredible amount of data with a much wider dynamic range and color tonality from which to construct an image with more freedom. An in-camera JPG file is that same image data compressed with a predefined contrast curve and color management applied by the camera manufacturer as a fit-all solution to how images should look.

If you imagine a RAW file as a huge range of ingredients in a kitchen, then you’ll understand that the bigger the selection of materials, the more possibilities are available for creating something delicious. To continue the analogy, if a large counter packed with every imaginable ingredient is RAW, then a JPG would be the baked cake

All cameras capture in RAW, but when you decide to shoot JPG, most cameras will convert your RAW file to a JPG for you, only keeping the JPG.

We want to share why we think shooting in RAW is the way to go for more control, flexibility, and quality.

 

How far can camera control take you?

“Just get it right in camera” is probably a statement you’ve heard, or maybe even said, at some point in your life as a photographer. While there is some truth to the statement, there’s a limit to what you can actually ‘get right’ in camera. White balance, depth of field, focus, exposure – you have control of these. But when it comes to contrast, color grading, highlight and shadow recovery, and much more, it’s almost impossible in most cases to have any impact on this before pressing the shutter.

Getting everything as close as possible to what you want in-camera is by far the best starting point. But some things simply have to be done in post-production and editing a RAW file has much more to offer than editing a JPG file. Below is a quick run-through of some of the benefits of RAW.

 

Easy-to-correct white balance

While it’s easy for studio and landscape photographers to set the white balance correct, it’s not always possible for other genres of photography. Take event photography, for example. You move around, in and out of buildings, sun, shade, everything is changing, and you just have to follow the subjects. The ability to easily correct white balance in post-production is a key benefit of shooting RAW.

Why shoot Raw?

Original file was too blue due to the time of day and incorrect white balance. Since some areas of the original JPG file had a blown out blue channel (255), it was impossible to bring back details of that channel. The RAW file provided correct colors with a single click with the White Balance Picker.

Diving into bit-depth

It sounds technical, but bit-depth can be seen as the number of shades between the darkest value of a pixel and the brightest value. When you capture an image in JPG, the depth is 8-bit. This provides 256 shades per channel per pixel. A 12-bit RAW file captures 4.096 shades per channel, while a 16-bit RAW file captures a whopping 65.536 shades.

Long story short, you have so much more information to play around with in a RAW file, making your images super flexible with smooth tonal transitions when you edit them.

Get more dynamic range

I like to describe dynamic range as the elasticity of an image. There are more details in the shadows and highlights than meet the eye if you capture your images in RAW. Capture One is renowned for its highlight and shadow recovery capabilities, providing a solid foundation for bringing back details in areas of your image that would have been lost if shooting in JPG.

Why shoot Raw?

The original image was overexposed with blown out highlights. Reaching 255 in multiple channels, it was impossible to recover any data in those areas from the JPG file. The dynamic range of the RAW file allowed a clean recovery using Capture One.

 

Better Image quality

With more control comes better image quality. The ability to fine-tune sharpening and noise reduction before converting your RAW file puts you in the front seat of the process, providing optimal image quality.

 

You can go back in time

Image editing software is constantly evolving, and as new tools and features emerge, it’s allowing more sophisticated processes for your photography. I have talked to photographers loading ten-year-old RAW files into Capture One 11 to discover that they can get much more out of their files than they could ten years ago. It brought new life to their old images.

RAW processing algorithms are becoming more and more advanced, and you really don’t have the same possibilities with old JPG files. So, keep those RAWs!

 

What’s the catch?

RAW files take up more space, filling your memory cards and hard disks up faster. This isn’t as big a problem today as it was ten years ago, as storage prices are very low. Also, most cameras shoot slightly slower in burst mode when shooting RAW files.

Another catch is speed. All images shot in RAW have to be processed with a RAW converter. This, mixed with the slower burst speed, makes it less preferable for sports photographers covering major sports events. The images have to go to press as fast as possible, making it difficult to run every image through a RAW converter.

 

Fujifilm advantages!

When you are shooting Fujifilm you already know how great their film simulations are. With them you can easily color grade your pictures when pressing the shutter button, these simulations can make your images get a cinematic or analogue feel to them. These film simulations are saved when you shoot jpeg. But when shooting RAW they are still embedded in the file in Capture One – but you can change it after importing, that is not possible when shooting jpeg.

Along with the film simulation Capture One also embed lens corrections and camera profiles.

 

So, what should I shoot?

Unless you need to deliver images very fast (say for newspaper photography), or if the colors and contrast aren’t the priority in the specific images, you should absolutely shoot in RAW.

Today’s memory cards bring a lot of storage for a reasonable price, so if your camera supports shooting RAW + JPG, that is an option that brings you the best of both worlds. You have a JPG file instantly available next to the corresponding RAW file, offering you all the options described above. The only downside to this is a more demanding file management.

Just like working with a full set of ingredients at hand, shooting your images in RAW will provide the full set of options for editing your images exactly as you want them to look.

What’s your main argument for shooting RAW?

If you don’t already own Capture One, download a 30-day trial and try editing RAW files today.

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See it from my perspective; Creative cityscapes editing

Working with natural light is often challenging as you have less control over the outcome, especially if you want to get that shot there and then. Thankfully, with Capture One’s suite of tools and in particular targeting those adjustments in Layers, the potential for achieving your vision is greater than you think!

Join award-winning fine art photographer and filmmaker Baber Afzal as he demonstrates the process in this step-by-step guide. Remember that you can download a free Capture One trial here.


The following image was shot towards the end of December of last year, 2017. We had the most amazing conditions come to life when fog started rolling in during the afternoon in Dubai which is really rare. This shot was taken while we were crossing downtown and I noticed this unreal reflection on Burj Khalifa that we just couldn’t miss as the low flying fog was making its way through.

 

Now let’s talk about the process of how I edited this image in Capture One. Below is a step by step breakdown with screenshots of the tools I used.

 

Global Adjustments

I’m going to use both layers and global adjustments for this image. Global adjustments form the base layer by affecting the entire image. In the Layers Tool, this is the Background layer.

Exposure

Looking at the histogram, it’s clear that the image is underexposed. To compensate for this, I added some slight exposure and brightness. Mixing the two gives better control of the overall lightness of the image, as brightness will preserve the highlights better.

 

Checking for chromatic aberrations and purple fringing

Next up is checking for chromatic aberrations and purple fringing. This is a pretty common phenomenon when shooting architecture and landscape. Chromatic Aberration is ticked as default within Lens Correction, and luckily this image didn’t suffer from purple fringing. No further actions required.

Straightening vertical lines

Shooting buildings upwards like this image will always produce tilted vertical lines unless you use a technical camera. This is fixable using Keystone Vertical in Capture One.

I simply dragged the round handles on the two lines to make them align with vertical lines in the image, like so:

After clicking Apply in the middle, the image looked like so:

The keystone correction was now applied, and I simply needed to switch to another cursor tool, for example, V (Select), to see the actual image.

Making local adjustments to the foreground buildings

The first step towards muting these buildings is by masking them out first.

The best way for us to create our mask is by using the Advanced tab in the Color Editor Tool.

The Color Picker, highlighted in Orange, is used to pick the brown color of the building, shown below.

The resulting color wheel will look like this.

Now we need to stretch out the radius so that we can affect the full spectrum of that color. Also increase the Smoothness value too. The resulting wheel will look as below.

Next, click on View selected color range to see which areas of the image are selected.  Any color not part of the selection will show as monochrome in the image.  Gradually keep widening the handles in the color wheel to make sure we cover all the colors available in the building except for aqua and blue since we don’t wish to select the sky.

The resulting wheel will look like the one above and the resulting image will look as follows with View selected color range checked.

We can be confident enough that we have managed to cover most of the colors available in the foreground building. The windows won’t be selected since they match the color of the sky or almost share similar color space.

The next step is to convert this color range selection into a layer mask.  As shown below, simply click on the three dotted lines on the extreme right side of Color Editor and click on Create Masked Layer from Selection.

This will create a new Layer.

The Masked Layer is shown in red on the image. Toggle M to turn the mask on and off.

Capture One has done a pretty incredible job with the selection, but now it’s time to fine-tune the mask by using the brush cursor tool. Click B to select the brush and right-click to set the brush size to 140 and keep the Auto Mask feature ON, so that when we brush along the side of the building, it doesn’t bleed into the sky.

The leftmost building and the second building from the left need help in fine-tuning.

Below is the final mask we managed to make in 5 minutes with the brush tool. Now we have successfully made a mask for the foreground buildings as we discussed.

Next, I will make the necessary adjustments to this layer in order to give a mute feeling to those buildings. I have used the below panels and adjustments.

 

I increased the Contrast slider in the Exposure panel to give a bit of pop to the top parts of the two middle buildings. This slider is smart in the sense that already saturated colors receive less of an increase than those colors that are not.  Also, highlights are protected to a certain extent.

Now the image looks like this:

We managed to get a pretty decent muted feel of the buildings in the front. The reason for us to give this muted feeling is so that we can bring focus to the building in the back, the Burj Khalifa.

Now let’s create a new empty layer and rename it to ‘Burj Khalifa.’  Click on the three dots in the top right corner of the Layer panel and click on Copy Mask From – Foreground Buildings.

This will copy the mask that exists on the Foreground Buildings layer we made onto the new Burj Khalifa layer.

After doing this, enter the same menu and click on INVERT Mask.

Now you have successfully created a background layer simply by inverting the layer as shown below.

Making Adjustments to the Burj Khalifa Layer

It’s time to divert the viewer’s attention to the main subject – the Burj Khalifa.

The best way for this image is to use the Clarity tool. The beauty of the Clarity tool is its ability to adjust the mid-tone contrast without potentially losing highlight or shadow detail.

As you can see below, I adjusted Clarity to the maximum value and set the structure to 20 to bring out the edges of Burj Khalifa a little.

I made some additional changes to this Layer too. To give the layer a bit more punch, I used the Advanced tab of the Color Editor again and this time selected the blues (referring to the sky in this case).

I reduced the lightness by around -15 so that the sky can become a bit darker and at the same time not affecting the luminosity values of the fog where the reflection is happening, giving it a nice pop.

Below is the image so far.

I still believe we have a bit more room to add extra Clarity to the Burj Khalifa, so let’s create a new layer again and name it ‘Burj Khalifa 2’.

As we did earlier, simply copy the same mask again of the Burj Khalifa. Now we can use this layer to add a bit more Clarity to it, so it makes the reflection look more refined.

This time I used Punch for the Clarity mode so that it adds a bit of vibrancy and contrast to the mid-tones.

Again – the image so far.

 

Adding the finishing touches 

After reviewing the image, I just need to add a few finishing touches to the “Background.” This will affect the whole image.

I decided to bring up the brightness a bit since the image became a bit too dark due to the changes we made.

I’ve also added a little Vignetting.

And finally, a Curve adjustment by bringing up the blacks by 5 points and lowered the midtones while I left the highlights the way they are.

Below is the final image we have managed to achieve.

I hope you all enjoyed this blog post. Feel free to now apply these techniques to your images, and experiment!

I would love to see the images you create with what I have taught here. Good luck!

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