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Documenting the daily life within a Haitian hospital

Photographer Jens Honoré recently had the opportunity to visit the Saint Damien Pediatric Hospital in Haiti, invited to photograph the daily life within the hospital.

The Saint Damien Pediatric Hospital is a non-profit hospital, founded in 1989 by NPH (USA) and is supported through public donations of the NPH USA’s St. Damien Pediatric Hospital Fund.

Jens Honoré writes…

When carrying out an assignment like this and photographing the emotional state present within a hospital, it can be quite a delicate challenge especially for someone outside of the community. It requires one to be very discreet, respectful, sensitive to the patient as well as sensitive to the overall tone and atmosphere surrounding that patient.

My approach was quite simple, to keep the images as simple as possible and for my presence to be as informal as possible. No lights or any other tools were used, no assistant or guide, just me, my camera and the subject. I knew that I needed a system that could work under challenging light conditions but I wanted a system that would deliver the absolute highest quality files. Although discretion is high on the priority list for a project like this, and Medium Format is perhaps not known for it’s discrete size, the choice to use Medium Format was made for a number of reasons.

First and foremost in my decision to use medium format was the image quality offered by the XF Camera System. Some of the best optics, high resolution and the shallow depth of field possible in medium format were big on my list to ensure I could deliver an end result I could be proud of. There is also the feel of medium format. The photojournalist reportage style of a project like this is quite common. It’s of course not a bad thing, but it wasn’t what I had envisioned for these images. I wanted something that would set these images apart from the typical delivery and I thought that the different aspects of medium format would work well to achieve that.

XF IQ3 50MP, SK110mm, ISO800

I wanted the resulting images to reflect as much the subject as the atmosphere. Hospitals are not exactly associated with joy and celebration, but neither are they entirely bleak and somber. The atmosphere of the hospital is what the patient makes it and I wanted to capture a depth in the images that hopefully reflected that atmosphere. It’s that depth that I felt required something different from DSLR, something I knew from experience only a medium camera system could deliver. The XF Camera System proved to be the right choice when I weighed all that I wanted to deliver for this project. It had all the features I needed in order to produce the photographs exactly how I envisioned them.

Although the end result may not depict an overtly happy tone, I believe I delivered the images in a manner that reflects the subjects themselves. I’m sure everyone can agree that a sick or suffering child is something no one would ever want to see; yet it’s an unfortunate and unforgiving part of life. There is melancholy to the images that one can’t avoid; this is the unfortunate truth surrounding illness, especially in children. However, due to the generosity and hard work of the people at Saint Damien Pediatric Hospital, and the NPH USA organization, there is hope, there is care and there is love.

I’d like to thank the good people at Saint Damien Pediatric Hospital in Haiti for allowing me to photograph and for all their patience and care towards the children of Haiti in need of their care.

Learn more about St Damien Pediatric Hospital here

XF IQ3 50MP, SK110mm, ISO400

From DSLR to Medium Format

Let’s start with one thing. Medium Format. The feel the look, it’s hard to describe in words, but you can see the difference immediately. With medium format, you’re drawn into the image in a way that is very different, having a completely different tactile feel to the image.

The decision to move to medium format was made back in 2015 on a shoot Zurich with another Phase One owner, Roger Fichmann. I was shooting with two of the best DSLR cameras on the market, with the highest resolution and they were both great but when I saw the depth of field and the incredible quality in the Phase One System, I was sold.

I made the decision to order the XF IQ2 60MP Camera System as it would cover my shooting style well, and got it just in time for three big shoots I had lined up in Thailand.

Getting started

Being new to the Phase One XF Camera System (only having tested it a bit from home), and not very well versed in the field of medium format photography, I was nervous that it would be bit of a mouthful tackling three shoots in five days. To my relief, however, everything worked right out of the box. The system was simple to set up and I was able start shooting right away. Getting started with this medium format beast was proving quite the easy transition.

For the planned shoots I would both on location and in the studio. Though I wasn’t very familiar with tethered shooting, I decided to give it a try. Looking back now I can honestly say for my style of shooting I would never shoot without it again. Having the ability to instantly adjust and focus-check through Capture One and be sure you’re spot on just makes everything so much easier.

On the set

I like my models to move a lot and constantly change poses, that being the case I never shoot on a tripod. Sure this may not be for everybody, but despite the handling difference of Medium Format I still got incredible detail and superb results even sooting as low as 1/60th and 1/80th. The Autofocus of the XF Camera System was fast and incredibly accurate, so despite the extensive resolution I need not worry.

I shot mostly with the Schneider Kreuznach 75-150mm and yes, it is a BEAST, but for me it seemed comfortable and well balanced. All the lenses I have used with the XF system are incredible and extremely sharp, so sharp that the detail can be rather unforgiving so it is important that all effort is met to have your models looking their best!

Conclusion

The XF Camera System, for me, delivered on all levels and made my transition from DSLR an easy one. The XF Camera System is intuitive, a real workhorse in the field, reliable and accurate. Not to mention the stunning detail. Sure there are some tradeoffs to DSLR, size being one of them, but at the end of the day the image quality, reliability and ease of use are what counts.

I have a major project in the tropical rainforests of the Philippines that will last a month, mixing studio and location shoots, and I have no hesitation that this system will perform under all the challenges. Like I said, for me the image quality is the highest priority and the images produced are insanely detailed, the colors suberb, and as the team all said when they saw their images on the big monitor, the final result is “WOW!”

Best regards,

William Barrington-Binns

Print Fine Art Images directly from Capture One Pro 9

I have done a few months of comparisons between printing from Capture One Pro 9 directly and exporting tiffs from Capture One Pro 9 to doing additional work in Photoshop. There are things that can be done in Photoshop with selections and masks, and advanced sharpening workflows that cannot be done in Capture One Pro 9. But, with the quality of files that you are capable of getting from Capture One Pro 9, there might be less of a need for that additional work in Photoshop, and with some images it might be possible to skip other processing, resizing, and sharpening software altogether before printing.

Download free 30-day trial of Capture One Pro 9

Before I print in Capture One Pro 9, there are a few things that I do to set up the interface and tools that allow more control and ease in making those final adjustments before printing.

Setting up your Capture One Pro 9 Workspace for Printing

Display calibration:

This should go without saying, but having consistent color and brightness settings for your display will make the editing and printing process easier and more repeatable. There are a few things to keep in mind when creating your settings.

One of the most important things is getting your brightness correct, so that your adjustment will be accurately reflected when viewing the print under normal conditions. Dody Thompson, Edward Weston’s last assistant and a fantastic photographer in her own right, wrote about Edward bringing his prints out of the darkroom and evaluating them under a bright skylight. Now people always complain that museums light his work too dimly (mostly for preservation and conservation purposes) and that they are always too hard to see. Our eyes tend adjust for the dimmer environment naturally after being in the gallery for a short while, and if there is a room full of Edward Weston prints that all have a similar range of tones, they will look consistent and beautiful.

But, we are not Edward Weston, so we better get the monitor settings right. A good place to start for a normal room with normal room lighting is around 105 cd/m2. I’m glad we no longer have to work in dimly lit offices looking at CRT displays for all those hours of editing, and a normal room light with those settings should be fine.

Background and Proof Margins:

The Capture One Pro 9 default dark gray interface is great for long hours of editing, but when it becomes time to print black and white, you might be surprised at how dark your images look when compared to a lighter background border.

Unless you are printing completely to the edge of the paper, you are going to have some paper white, or mat board, or white gallery walls around your prints. Having that bright white reference point is going to make your prints seem really dark if they were previewed with the default dark interface only. To lessen the need for additional proofing and reprints, there are two things I do to make sure the overall brightness is correct before sending it to the printer.

I go to Preferences, choose Appearance and change the background color to white (I’d prefer a 2% gray, but white will do just as well here). That will give you a new white point as a reference for the brightest areas in your image. It will also make the shadows appear darker than when it was previewed with the darker background. I also change the proof margins to have a little more white background showing. The default setting is 25 and I change it to 32. That isn’t critical, but I want to see it more in the center of the display with slightly more white space around the image.

Now I am ready to do any final brightness and contrast adjustments with one last Local Adjustment layer and Luma curve.

Final Printing Adjustments

I do my final tonal edits with a new local adjustment layer called Final Printing Adjustment, using a curve adjustment and an inverted mask (you can see my previous post on the Phase One blog to see how I use Curves in Local Adjustments). I use this curve adjustment similarly to how I’d use a Levels adjustment, by moving the black point and white point output sliders and controlling the toe and shoulder of the curve to prevent any abrupt tonal shifts. Doing this on the top-most Local Adjustment layer allows it to be affected by everything below, whereas a Levels tool will take effect before the Local Adjustment layers.

This last step is generally a global adjustment, but an added benefit of using a Local Adjustment layer is that I can erase the mask in any areas that are too heavily affected by the final adjustment.

Printing by the Numbers:

It is true that the print on the page is all that matters and pure numbers will never tell you exactly how you are going to feel about a print once the ink hits the page. But with calibrated printers and a way to match luminance values to a printed target, you can understand what that reading of 7, or 248, is REALLY going to look like when printed. I use a combination of the Curves tool and color readouts to do a mental soft proof, sometimes with a print of a step wedge with the inks and paper I intend to use. Like most things, it isn’t essential, but can be useful, especially if you are still learning what a printer or paper is capable of doing. I created a 256 step target with RGB and black ink labels for the last 2, 5, 10, and 20 percent of values at either end of the scale. You can download a version of the file with and without the labels here.

Using Color Readouts:

The next step is to use some kind of color readout to see exactly what the image tonal values are, and to make sure there are no large areas blocking up in the shadows or blowing out in the highlights.

Under the Color Picker icon there are several options for different tools. The Color Readout tool is all the way at the bottom of the list. The number of readouts you will use varies from image to image, but once you have the tool active, there will be the same number of readouts in the same position for every image. For that reason alone, I tend to keep the number of readouts fairly low—maybe three to five. That way, I can easily move them around without too much aggravation. You are really only looking at one or two highlight and shadow areas and a midtone area.

When printing with black and white we usually use ink percentages, rather than RGB values, so it’s a good idea to have that target I created or some other scale handy to easily translate luminance values to ink percentages.

Exposure Warnings for Output Thresholds:

It is easy to check for highlight and shadow clipping in Photoshop by creating a new Levels adjustment layer on the top of your layer stack, and, while holding down the option/alt key (the image will turn white if moving the black point slider or black if moving the white point slider), move the input slider to where you start to have parts of the image fill in with bits of black (or white if checking highlight clipping).

When working in Capture One, you can do something similar with the exposure warning tool. To define the clipping point you need to go to preferences, and choose the warnings option. I put my settings for the highlights at 253, and 3 for the shadows. This will show you at which point you reach the beginning of paper white and 100% ink density.

I generally do not like to have anything lighter than a 5% gray and usually nothing very large. Similarly, I do not like to have large areas of 100% ink. I might have larger areas, or even whole images made up of 92%-98% ink, but there are subtle gradations in those darkest tones, and being able to accurately control and pre-visualize them is helpful in making that kind of dark and moody work. One reason I use dedicated black and white printers is to be able to control the inks at low end of the grayscale.

Local Adjustments for Output Sharpening:

Sharpening can be a contentious subject, and there are people firmly entrenched in different camps. I know there are strong opinions and formulae that people have for sharpening for different print sizes and media. My belief is that it is better to under-sharpen than to over-sharpen.

If I am printing directly from Capture One I will use a new local adjustment with an unsharp mask setting strictly for output. If there are areas with a lot of sky or smooth water, I will usually protect those areas with a mask. The same can be done with a different local adjustment for noise reduction.

If there are no areas that I need to mask, I will generally use the same local adjustment layer that I used for the final tonal adjustments.

Sharpening in the Print Menu:

The final print sharpening built into Capture One is a bit of a black box, and the degree of sharpening is based on print size, output resolution, and paper type. Most of the sharpening effect is controlled with the local adjustment layer, but I use a small amount of sharpening in the Capture One print menu. You will need to do some experimenting to see what settings work well for you, but I start with it set between 5 and 20. I’ve found that this produces enough of a sharpening effect in the print without introducing artifacts and unwanted halos.

Another way I have started to address output sharpening is to make the setting very low in the print menu, and use a local adjustment layer for increasing the sharpness and previewing how it will look in the viewer at something close to print size.

Film Grain:

Due to my background in large format, the film grain options are something I don’t use too often. The only time I use them is when I have done some sharpening and noise reduction, and want to hide that with the randomness of the film grain. In most cases I use the Fine Grain or Tabular Grain settings with the Impact setting to the point where the grain is just barely noticeable. That is a personal preference, and I have seen some very effective use of harsher and larger grain settings for different types of images and matching prints made with small format film cameras. It is a personal decision that needs to be relevant to your work and have a definite purpose.

Output Scaling:

One of the new features in Capture One 9 is the updated interpolation engine, and I have been doing some preliminary testing to see if allowing Capture One to do the scaling to the printer’s native resolution is a better option than allowing the printer driver or RIP to do the interpolation. QuadToneRIP converts the input resolution of every image to 720 pixels per inch, and if you are printing from outside of Capture One, the operating system (on OS X) or the RIP (QTRgui on Windows) is doing the up-resing. I don’t have a clear answer on the exact formula OS X uses, but on Windows it is a simple bilinear interpolation. I’m still working on these tests, but one thing I love about Capture One is discovering how new features can be used in fine art printing environments.

Wait, where’s the proof?

Capture One takes an interesting approach to soft proofing, and it makes final printing adjustments easy. Capture One always displays how the image will look with the selected output ICC profile used in the current Process Recipe in the Output tool tab.

The grayscale working space I use, and what the Piezography system is designed for, is Gray Gamma 2.2. That has the same gamma as Adobe (RGB 1998) and that is what I leave my output recipe set to, and I let the black and white tool handle the conversion.

When I am doing my color to black and white conversion and all of my local adjustment, I leave the process recipe set to Adobe RBG 1998 so I can easily turn off the “enable black and white” setting and see the color version. If I were to do the editing in GG22, and turned off the “enable black and white” option, the image would be a desaturated version of the color image, without any of the black and white filtration. The only time I change to PhaseOne GG22 is before exporting a tiff to do more work in Photoshop or printing with a different RIP or print layout tool. This workflow seems to work well across all the dedicated black and white printing systems, but other options might be better suited to your specific requirements and print toning methods.

Making the Print

Printing Black and White with Color Color Managed Toning

I prefer to do this kind of work in QuadToneRIP, but if you want to be able to control the final print color from within Capture One, you can go back to the black and white tool, and click on the Split Tone tab. This will allow you to select a hue for the light tones and hard tones separately, and control the degree of coloration with the saturation slider. If you use this option, you will need to make sure you are printing with a color managed workflow and printing in the color mode in the printer set-up dialog, and not the printer’s own black and white mode.

Capture One has resources that discuss the use of specific paper and printer ICC profiles and soft proofing before printing. These color management and print mode settings will vary based on the different printers and ink systems you might be using, so you will need to consult your printer driver or third-party developer for specific recommendations. But, as good as a soft proof might be, the real proof is in the print – especially when working in black and white.

Using the Printer’s dedicated print modes, Epson ABW or other Printer’s Monochrome Modes:

These print modes use the multiple black inks and the manufacturers’ software and driver settings for controlling the image tone and print color. This method can produce slightly better prints than using the color print mode and controlling the color through Capture One and ICC profiles. I personally like to have more control over the way the gray inks are blended and how color inks are introduced for shifting the print color warmer or cooler, so I don’t use these manufacturers’ print modes. They don’t allow you to accurately see what your image will look like before printing, and the settings can be vague and require some trial and error to dial in what will work best for your images. The results from the Epson ABW are decent and might be acceptable for people making the occasional black and white print, but they aren’t as good of a print as what is possible with other dedicated black and white software and RIPs.

Dedicated Black and White Printing with Capture One Pro 9

I am a big advocate for a dedicated black and white printing system. I personally use a modified Jon Cone Piezography system, but have also seen great prints made with good profiles for use with the Eboni-6 ink set, created and popularized by Paul Roark. These systems work with Epson and Roland Printers exclusively, and this post is about integrating these dedicated black and white printer workflows with Capture One Pro.

Why Not Just Use the Built in Black and White Features for Your Printer

If you compare a print made with the Default Epson Driver using the Advanced Black and White print mode and one made with QuadToneRIP, you’ll see that the print made with QTR is slightly smoother than the one made with ABW. That is partly due to the way ABW introduces a slight shadow compression that creates a little more contrast than a print made with QuadToneRIP, but that isn’t exactly what makes a print made with QTR better. The QTR print has smoother highlights, and better subtle midtone gradation. It also appears sharper, like there is more information in the original file. There isn’t really any more information in the file, but for whatever reason, ABW can’t resolve it.

The differences between a well made QTR profile and a Piezography print are subtle, but the Piezography print is still better. There is more uniform paper coverage, and because of that, it can render more detail than the dithered inks. The image also appears to be in the paper rather than sitting on top of it.

Printing the dots between the dots:

Black and white prints with OEM Epson inks are made from three dilutions of black and gray inks, and the inks need to be heavily dithered to render the lighter tones in the print. When the inks are so heavily dithered, the printer spreads the individual ink dots further apart, allowing the paper white to show through. This is fine for most photographers, but if you are using Capture One, you want more than “most photographers”. You want the most you can get from your photographs.

With more shades of gray inks in the printer, the inks are laid down with much less dithering, creating the appearance of smoother tonal transitions. Additionally, there is more overlap of each neighboring shade of ink, often three or four overlapping inks for any given tone in the image. These overlapping inks fill in those spaces between the dots of the other shades, providing a more even coverage of the paper and creating a richer feeling print. The actual density measurements might be the same from one system to the next, but it is a three dimensional presence and depth in the print that we are after. It is like comparing the appearance of an RC gelatin-silver print and a good silver-chloride contact print. The densities might match for each of the steps measured, but the contact print will feel more alive.

Driving a Dedicated Black and White Printer with QuadToneRIP

Piezography and Eboni inks use QuadToneRIP to drive a dedicated black and white printer with as many as seven dilutions of black and gray inks. Printing with these black and white ink sets is integrated into the normal printing system on OS X and is similar to the standard printing workflow when using Capture One on a Mac.

On a PC, you will need to export a tiff from Capture One to print through the Windows QTRgui, the dedicated QuadToneRIP printing environment on Windows. That would be the case for printing with QuadToneRIP if you were working from Lightroom, Photoshop, Qimage, or whatever your favorite image editing program is. If you are unfamiliar with QuadToneRip, I included a few links here that are good places to get your feet wet.

No matter how good your black and white images look on the screen, there is nothing like holding one in your hand. And knowing the characteristics of your printing materials and what they are possible of producing, and processing the file to get the most out of it is where digital black and white can reach beyond what was possible in the traditional darkroom.

Best regards,

Richard Boutwell
B&W Mastery

To learn more, sign up for Richard’s upcoming webinar on Fine Art Printing

Download free 30-day trial of Capture One Pro 9

Work smarter, not harder!

Why do we edit pictures?

There is a lot of different answers to that question. For me personally, it’s mainly to give the image the “feel” that I want it to have, and to ensure the overall image quality. My editing process consists mainly of adjusting color, contrast and details. I don’t do larger multiple composition work, clone in or out larger areas or do heavy skin and body retouching.

This workflow means that I don’t need the extensive possibilities offered through Photoshop, and instead can use Capture One Pro 9 as a one-stop software for all my editing, sorting, rating and IPTC needs. For me this means I get a highly efficient workflow that allows me to do a lot of work in a short amount of time – not only on assignments where time is of the essence, but also everyday in the office. A focused workflow enables me to be very effective and thereby adopt a “work smarter not harder” mentality.

I find Capture One Pro 9, combined with the highest image quality, to be the strongest asset to me as a photographer.

The new engine in Capture One Pro 9, specifically the changes to the Contrast Tool, is something I’m very happy to see. The Contrast Tool doesn’t allow adjustments to become too contrasty too fast, which older versions had a habit of doing. This is further helped by the High Dynamic Range Shadow and Highlight Tool, as well as the Clarity Tool, which allows me to control contrast very well.

Image without and with shadow/highlight 20/20

Another feature that I really like in Capture One Pro 9 is the Film Grain tool. This tool gives the images, especially when printed in large scale, a film-like look instead of the “perfect” digital files and thereby adds that last bit of detail and feel.

Without and with Tabular Grain 50/50 – 100 % zoom

The Local Adjustment Tool also got an upgrade in Capture One Pro 9, which is very useful for both detailed work and broader adjustments using, for example, the Gradient Mask tool.

Without and with Local Adjustments with the Gradient Mask too

With all these great new improvements to Capture One Pro 9, I was excited to be invited to test the Beta version well before the release. While testing the beta version of Capture One Pro 9, I did a photo essay of a dirt bike rider named Ronni, here in my home city of Copenhagen.

I wanted to have a heavy contrast/rough style to the edited images, something that matched the location and sport while at the same time allowing me to test the new engine of Capture One Pro 9 and it’s improvements, specifically those improvements for contrast.

With this goal in mind, I set out to sort and edit the photos. Below you can see a step-by-step run through of my workflow:

The original RAW, directly from the camera.

The first thing I need to secure, when I start to edit my pictures, is a good base. Therefore I start by establishing the starting point for dynamic range and colors using the Levels tool. I use the RGB Levels tool to secure dynamic range, followed by the three separate channel Levels tool windows to reach my desired colors for the shadows, midtones and highlights (this is more important for color images, but also has some effect on B&W images).

Correcting Levels for desired details and colors in the whole dynamic range in the Levels tool

After the base dynamic range and color is secured, I switch to black and white mode using the Black & White tool. Here we can edit each color channel separately for greater effect, and even use the Color Editor tool for even more possibilities.

Using the Black & White tool and color editor to control how the colors transform into black and white

Now that the image is monochrome, we need to add contrast to achieve the desired feel of the image. For this series I wanted to have a dark and moody effect, so I added a lot of contrast, balancing on the dark tones, but without getting all black. When I reached the right contrast, I then used the HDR Shadow slider to balance the dark areas, and the HDR Highlight Slider, along with the Brightness slider to tone down to sky. All of this greatly achieved the dark moody look I was after.

Correcting the exposure, contrast, brightness and dynamic range in the photo for the desired effect + tool corrections

To guide the viewer towards the centre of the frame, where the action is, I here added some vignette to the frame, using the Vignetting tool.

Adding vignette + tool corrections

At this stage it’s time to add detail. To do this I used the Clarity tool to bring a bit more details forward, and the Noise Reduction tool for a clean file, which I can then add beautiful Film Grain to. It might seem a bit odd to first use Noise Reduction and then add back noise; but in my mind there is a clear difference between the digital noise, and the beautiful film noise from Capture One Pro 9. The Film Grain also helps to further strengthen the dark and moody look I was going for.

Adding details with clarity, noise reduction and film grain + tool corrections

For the final touch-up I use the Local Adjustment tool,for areas that needed special attention. I used it to get a darker sky, to add a bit more Clarity to areas that needed it, and then finally to darken a few highlighted areas, all without ruining other areas.

Putting the final touch to the photo with local adjustment to create the last dramatic effects + tool corrections

I’m very happy with the overall results of the series and am especially pleased with the new engine in Capture One Pro 9. Capture One Pro 9 gives me even more creative possibilities, in a fast and effective workflow, and still deliveries second-to-none image quality.

Best regards,

Esben Zøllner Olesen