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Get perfect snow without Color Cast

NOTE: This article discusses an outdated version of Capture One. To learn more about our latest version, click here.

When shooting snow landscape images you are extremely sensitive to the White Balance (WB) in your images and to any tone variation in the ‘color’ of the snow.

The snow in the image is like having placed White Balance cards all over your image and if you have any systematical variation of the WB, it will be very obvious to see.

Systematical variations will come out

Even though you don’t normally notice that your camera shows systematical variations in the WB across the image, it may become obvious in snow landscape images and you will want to do something about it.

If you are having WB variation issues, the LCC Tool in Capture One Pro 7 will be the perfect tool for fixing the problem.

Something not right about the “color” of the snow

Coming home from a beautiful day in Italy’s Dolomite Mountains shooting with a camera that I haven’t been using for snow landscape images before, I couldn’t wait to see the results in Capture One Pro 7.

I noticed that there was something not right with the ‘color’ of the snow.  No matter where I used the White Balance Picker to set the WB on the images, they would show a greenish/cyan cast toward the edges.  My camera and lens were showing a classical Color Cast issue.  This was not something I had noticed before, but now with snow landscape images it was quite obvious.

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Above is the image in Capture One Pro 7 after import.  I have added the color readout pins to show the difference in WB between the center of the image and the edge.  At the edge the WB is off with a difference of 14 between the red and the blue color channels.

Enter the LCC Tool…..

Fortunately Capture One Pro 7 has a LCC Tool (Lens Cast Correction Tool), which has been specially designed to deal with this kind of problem.

Originally it was designed to deal with Medium Format Camera backs mounted on technical cameras where the angle of incident light through the lens to the sensor often can be very extreme and very different from when the sensor was calibrated at the factory for working with standard lenses.  The LCC Tool is located in the Lens Tool Tab.

Tip726 img 3                 Color Cast in the image                                   Color Cast removed by the LCC Tool

 

Here you can see the effect of fixing the Color Cast issue.  It would really be a shame if such an image ended up on a white wall or framed with a passe-partout without having fixed the Color Cast issue.  Once you notice it you see it all the time.

You need a reference file

To fix an issue with Color Cast in your camera you basically need to shoot a reference file of a white opaque plate with the camera and the lens you were using.  From this reference file Capture One Pro 7 can calculate the needed information to fix various lens/sensor related issues like:  Color Cast, Dust Spots and Light fall-off.  In this case I only need to use the Color Cast functionality of the tool.

How to shoot the LCC reference file:

When shooting the reference file for fixing Color Cast in your lens/camera system, it is important to use the same lens settings as when you use the lens for your real images.  The angles of incident light through the lens to the sensor needs to be exactly the same for the reference shoot as for the real images you want to fix.  You should also use the same kind of light.

So if you are using natural daylight, then shoot the reference file in that light and if you are using tungsten, then use tungsten also for your reference shoot.  Using the same light source may not be important for your camera/lens combination, but for others it may make a difference.

Focus distance also have an influence but it’s not typically something that matters between focus distances of 5m to infinity, but it makes a difference between close-up and infinity as the light passing through the lens actually changes quite al lot between these focus distances.

Tip726 img 1B

When shooting the LCC reference file you place the diffusing opaque plate right in front of the lens.

Various versions of opaque plates available

For this particular camera I am always shooting at f.5.6 and focusing on infinity. Therefore, I only needed to do one reference file using these settings. There are various versions of opaque plates you can use and they can typically be bought through your local photo dealer. In my case I didn’t expect the camera to show this kind of problem, so I didn’t bring my opaque plate with me. But I couldn’t wait to fix the problem until I returned from my trip, so I had to figure something out.

No opaque plate…….what to do?

When shooting the opaque plate you place it directly in front of the lens.  This means that it is so close to the lens that it is totally out of focus. The surface of the plate doesn’t need to super perfect; the plate just needs to defuse the light so the camera doesn’t see any motive through the plate.

What could deliver such functionality? Luckily I had an almost new white plastic bag with me.  Maybe this would be good enough. I cut out a piece of the plastic bag large enough to cover the lens. Holding the white plastic up to the light I could see that it looked pretty even and I decided to give it a try. And yes it worked.

Creating an LCC file in Capture One Pro 7

Start by importing the image of the opaque plate. Locate it in the browser and right-click on the thumbnail.

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When creating the LCC calibration data you have the option of including dust removal information. If you are working with a wide-angle lens on a technical camera with a digital back, you should select the “Wide Angle Lens with movements”, as this will enable some extra analysis steps necessary for these kind of lenses but not necessary normal DSLR and mirrorless cameras.

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When a LCC file has been created, a LCC icon appears on the top of the thumbnail to indicate, that this file acts as a LCC references file.

The effect of removing the Color Cast:

When you have created the LCC file, it will automatically apply the calibration data to the image itself, so you can validate the effect of the just created LCC calibration file.

To show you the effect of removing Color Cast, I have made two variants of the same opaque reference image.  On both variants I have picked the White Balance in the center of the image. Then a good deal of extra saturation from the Exposure Tool has been added to make it easier to see the Color Cast.

Tip726 img 91

The image to the left shows the nature of the Color Cast:  a green/cyan toning increasing towards the corners of the image.  The image on the right side has the Color Cast applied and it shows no color at all.

Fixing the Color Cast by applying the LCC file to the real images

As this is something you probably want to do with a large number of images, you should start by setting up the “Apply LCC Options”. Click on the “triangle” icon in the LCC toolbar to get the menu list.

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I am not interested in compensating for the light fall-off of the lens so I set the amount to 0%.

Now I want to apply the LCC to all my images.  In the thumbnail browser I select all the images that I want to fix including the LCC Image.  I right-click on any of the selected thumbnails and select the “Apply LCC” option.   This applies the Color Cast fix to all the selected files.

For this method to work it is necessary that the LCC file is either the first or the last of the selection of files.

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Making a LCC calibration Preset:

Now that I have realized that my camera actually needs a LCC file for critical White Balance images, I will generate a LCC Preset that is simple to use at any other time without having to find the image of the white opaque plate.  In the LCC Tool I set the Uniform Light slider to 0%.  Then I select the Icon with the 3 horizontal lines found in the toolbar of the LCC Tool. Here I choose the “Save User Preset” option.

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In the preset menu you can save or find already generated User Presets.  In this case I named the Preset after the camera model and the f-stop.  By having the Preset it will be extremely easy to fix an image shoot with this camera for color cast in the future.

 

All the best,

Niels

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Always back up……..seriously!

NOTE: This article discusses an outdated version of Capture One. To learn more about our latest version, click here.

You’ve heard it over and over, and over and over, and over and over……..regardless of how often it’s said, it will always hold true and never ring truer than when your data is lost.

A corrupt file is a corrupt file

It doesn’t matter if it’s an award winning shot, or just a picture of a friend drinking a beer on an inner tube, a corrupt file is a corrupt file and that is always going to ruin your day.

Sure your workflow is safe enough?

From a “Tech Tip” perspective you may roll your eyes and not heed the advice but trust us, no matter how safe you think your workflow is, it can likely stand to be a little bit safer.  Here are a few suggestions to improve your security.

 

1. Use a dedicated Backup system, NOT JUST a RAID system.  RAIDs are great to keep you working if a drive goes down, but separate sources dedicated to backup are a MUST for redundant and safe storage.

 

  • A typical RAID system isn’t smart enough to know if a file is corrupt, but it will do a fine job of making sure you never lose that corrupt file! Should a file become corrupt, a RAID system will just perpetuate the existence of that corrupt file, not provide you with a backup of the viable data.  Separate, dedicated backup drives are the only way to ensure the safety of your files going forward.

 

2. Use Automated backup software.  You don’t always remember to back up and you can’t always find the time to do it manually.  Spend the $50 on professional software that will routinely backup files and check data for changes.  Something like Chronosync (pictured below), Superduper or even Apples Time Machine are necessary parts of a safe workflow.

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3. Work smarter not harder.  Using features in Capture One Pro 7 like the Catalog workflow can do wonders to streamline a backup workflow.  Even if you are dedicated to the Session workflow, it doesn’t hurt to create new Catalogs on a routine basis, referencing RAW files already edited in the Session and importing their adjustments into the backup Catalog.

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4. This will result in a Catalog that contains all the adjustments for your RAW data in one, easy to copy/store/archive file.

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  • The available “Backup” Catalog feature will not only create a copy of the Catalog that contains your changes since the last backup, but it will also guilt you into remembering by noting the last time you backed up.

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  • The backups of your Catalog are easily available in their default location or in a specific location you can choose (perhaps an external and dedicated backup drive would be best)

TechTip-25. When considering the best solution to protecting your data, don’t cheapen out.  Consider the real cost of a single lost image.  If you’re a traveling photographer, should the hero shot reside in only one location, losing it is the same as losing the whole job.  Always backup CF cards while on the road to at least 2 separate sources and, if it all possible, don’t format the CF card until you’re home safe and sound.

 

Stay safe out there kids!

~ Drew

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How to enhance details with Structure

Explaining structure is a hard task and better demonstrated with the right image. I have tried to explain it before in earlier blog posts but I believe this image is perfect for showing the enhancement that a structure adjustment can give.

This is a lemur, right?

Due to my recent faux pas with the robin and chaffinch mix-up, I am using an animal, which I can confidently identify! Therefore I hope I am right when I say this is a lemur?

As well as using Structure to really define the fur and make it stand out, I used quite a few Local Adjustment layers along with an obvious Black and White conversion

The unadjusted file was nearly passed over, but I am glad I spent the time to produce the final image.

The Original

As I said, I nearly missed the original image. The crop is not particularly interesting and the lemur is not standing out so well from his other friends in the huddle. I think when I took the shot I somehow expected this to be the case.

2014-02-05_14-18-33Before making any adjustments I tried to see if a better crop could improve things. I felt that a square crop could work in this case, so I chose the Crop Tool and defined a 1×1 Aspect Ratio by clicking and holding on the crop cursor icon.

2014-02-05_14-23-05This makes it very straightforward to get a square crop.

2014-02-05_14-25-25I figured that the crop helped the composition quite a bit, so decided to move on with some adjustments. I immediately thought that a Black & White image would work nicely, so I used the excellent Black and White Tool in Capture One Pro 7 to do the job. I normally start with one of our factory Presets and settled on the ‘Panchromatic 4’ Style.

2014-02-05_14-28-31I treat this as a starting point for further adjustment. Next I made some adjustments to the basic tools in the Exposure tab as you can see here.

2014-02-05_14-37-39It’s getting closer but there are some brighter areas which I think are a little distracting. For example, the white fur around the ear and the left leg. Even though I have a pretty strong Vignette on, I still think the top part of the image could come down a little. And of course, we still haven’t exercised Structure to bring out the full potential of image detail.

2014-02-05_14-39-24Therefore, this is a great opportunity to use some Local adjustments.

To tackle the brightness of the top part of the image, I’ll use a simple Gradient Mask (The Gradient Mask Brush is circled on the left) and draw from the top of the image down.

2014-02-05_14-45-09This gives the perfect mask for bringing down the exposure in just the top of the image.

2014-02-05_14-46-58I find it helpful to rename the Adjustment Layers in case I want to return to them to adjust later. Just click on the name to edit it.

I also added another gradient mask at the bottom of the image to bring the exposure of the grass down a little more. (not shown here)

Most importantly, I felt the ear fur was a little too bright, so a quick dab of the Draw Mask brush and a reduction in exposure fixed that.

2014-02-05_15-17-37

 

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I added a final Local Adjustment to the eye, just to brighten it up a little. My Adjustment Layers palette ended up looking like this.

2014-02-05_15-22-58Now we get to the all important Structure Tool, which I will add to the Background layer.

To try to explain Structure, think about this analogy. Consider an image of a tree and you have the option of using Clarity, Structure and Sharpening.

Clarity will enhance the tree trunk and the large branches

Structure will enhance the smaller branches and leaves.

Sharpening will enhance the structures on a leaf itself.

Hopefully the analogy will help you to think about what Structure can do for your images. If we compare the lemur on the left (Structure set to 40) with the one to the right (Structure set to zero) you can quite clearly see what Structure is doing in this case.

2014-02-05_15-39-36Structure really helps to bring out the details of the fur in a way that applying extra sharpening might not. If I was going to print this image out I could probably push it a little more. It’s worth experimenting with the level of Structure you can apply for your own needs, whether it’s for screen or print.

Here is the image also in color. What do you think works best? P1040071

 

Best regards,

David

 

 

 

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Steve Gosling’s 3 P’s of landscape photography

This loch sits on the edge of Rannoch Moor – a vast expanse of open land that I frequently cross on my way to Glencoe and beyond to the Scottish highlands and islands.

Adds to the challenge

This area on the west of Scotland has become one of my favourite parts of the UK for landscape photography. It’s a rugged, wild landscape that I find very inspiring. It can also be an incredibly frustrating place to work – the weather is very changeable (as mentioned in a previous post, they say in Scotland that if you don’t like the prevailing weather then just wait twenty minutes as it will inevitably change).

But that adds to the challenge and makes it all the more rewarding when everything comes together in a successful photograph.

The three P’s of landscape photography

When I am running photographic workshops or giving talks I often refer to the three P’s of landscape photography:

 

  • Planning – to work out the right time of day and year to be at a specific location (with reference to sun/moon position, the presence or absence of foliage on the trees, tide times etc) as well as keeping an eye on weather forecasts to increase the chance of getting a successful photograph;
  • Patience – as all landscape photographers know, rarely are we able to just turn up at a location, get out the camera and take a wonderful image. The old adage, ‘if you’ve seen it, you’ve missed it’ normally applies. My usual approach is to set up the camera, fine- tune the composition and then wait for the light, weather conditions, cloud formations and so on to come together in a way that supports what I want to say about the location (based most importantly on what I feel about the location, not just what I see). This requires a lot of patience – I frequently spend hours standing around waiting for all the elements to coincide to give me what I’m after. And of course success is far from guaranteed – going home empty handed is not uncommon.
  • Persistence – which brings me to the final ‘P’. Revisiting locations is part of the job – sometimes I’ll keep returning to a location over a period of years before I get a photograph that I’m completely happy with.

 

And that is certainly true of Loch na h’Achlaise. I’ve lost count of the number of times I’ve been to this spot and up until my last trip (when this image was taken) I’ve previously taken only one photograph that got close to reflecting the nature and the spirit of the place.

“Then I had my shot”

On this visit the loch was frozen, the distant mountains were covered in snow and an interesting cloud filled sky sat above them. I set up and waited. Luckily as the day was drawing to a close (and as I was beginning to fear that this would be another wasted visit) the sun broke through the cloud and gently illuminated the mountaintops. I had my shot.

 

The RAW file below showed that I had managed to record all the required detail in shadows & highlights and also revealed the potential for a successful colour image as well but that’s for the future. My first interest was to get a Black & White print.

RAW file 0567

As I’ve mentioned in a previous blog I like to get a good quality colour file as a starting point for the conversion process to monochrome.

I began by cropping the image to remove the edges of the frame and concentrate attention on the distant mountains.

I then used the exposure tools (in this case Levels and the Contrast slider) to brighten the image, particularly in the highlights, again to draw attention to the light on the mountains.

I also increased clarity and structure to enhance the detail in the foreground stones (these can be seen in the screen grab below and the result is in ‘the Final Colour Image’ also below)

Screen-Grab-Basic-Adjustments-Hi-Res

Final Colour Image 0567

The next step was the conversion to B&W. For this image I again used one of the presets available as a download for Capture One Pro 7 from Capture One Complete.

Screen-Grab-B&W-Conversion-Hi-Res

In this case I used ‘B&W Style 7’ – although I’ll usually look at the effects of using the other styles and presets, this remains one of my favourites. As is my way I use these as a starting point and then I fine-tune the result to suit my own vision and adapt them for each individual image.

I then added a vignette to darken the corners and adjusted the exposure curve to alter the contrast and lift the midtones.

Screen-Grab-Vignette-and-Curves-Adjustment-Hi-Res

The penultimate step was to darken the sky through the use of a gradient local adjustment layer,

Screen-Grab-Sky-Adjustment-Layer-Hi-Res

before cloning out dust marks, sharpening and then exporting for printing.

Frozen Final Image 0567Image Title: ‘Frozen’

 

Location:     Loch na h’Achlaise, Rannoch Moor, Scotland

Equipment:  Alpa TC Camera, Schneider 36mm lens, Phase One P45+ digital back, Gitzo tripod with Manfrotto 410 geared head, Lee 0.6 stop ND graduated and 6 stop ND filters

Exposure details:   f22, 1mins 29secs, ISO 50

 

All the best,

Steve Gosling

 

 

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