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Inside Ruo Bing Li’s artful fusion of fashion and precision

New York-based fashion and beauty photographer Ruo Bing Li has carved out a distinct space in the fashion industry with his delicate, painterly aesthetic. Originally from Yunnan, China, Ruo discovered his passion for photography after moving to Canada at age 16 and exploring various art forms. He ultimately earned a master’s degree in digital photography from the School of Visual Arts in New York.  

His portfolio goes beyond photography. He directs moving image projects, always maintaining his signature mix of artistry and beauty. In this interview, we talk to Ruo about his creative process, working with high-profile brands, and some advice for aspiring photographers.

What made you focus on photography as your primary medium?

During my undergraduate years, I first tried a few different art forms to explore other ways of expressing myself. But photography kept pulling me back. I love how it captures a moment and instantly tells a story. It made me see the world in a more detailed way, noticing light, shadows, and emotions. Photography felt like the perfect mix of everything I love about art—so I decided to focus on it.

How do you achieve this unique ‘painterly sensibility’ aesthetic in your photography?

When people describe my work as having a ‘painterly sensibility,’ I think it reflects my approach to photography—which is all about subtlety and restraint. Growing up with a Chinese background, I’ve always appreciated the beauty in simplicity and the power of a soft, gentle touch. I like to create natural and effortless images, avoiding anything that feels overly exaggerated or forced. In my creative process, I often imagine the scene as if I’m painting on a canvas. I consider the lighting, colors, and composition to create a serene and balanced look. In post-processing, I also try to enhance these elements with a light touch to maintain that sense of subtlety and calmness.

How do you stay inspired and adapt to the changing fashion and beauty photography trends?

I remain curious and open to new ideas to stay inspired in the fashion and beauty photography world. I find inspiration everywhere—in art, nature, movies, and everyday moments. This keeps my work fresh and exciting. I watch trends but don’t let them dictate my style. I try blending my vision with my current job to make my work feel relevant and authentic. It’s all about evolving and trying new things while maintaining my unique touch.

How do you maintain your artistry when collaborating with major brands and high-profile clients?

Working with high-profile clients is always exciting and a great opportunity to showcase my style while meeting the brand’s needs. I start by gaining a clear sense of their vision and goals. Once I understand, I find ways to blend them with my style. Collaboration is about finding common ground—respecting the brand’s identity while bringing my unique perspective.

What are some of the most meaningful projects you’ve worked on, and why do they stand out?

One project I particularly enjoyed was ‘TO THE FAR SIDE OF THE EARTH’ for Hot!Hot!Hot! magazine. During COVID, when travel wasn’t possible, I used stock images to create fantasy environments and then composited models into these ‘new worlds.’ I aimed to craft a story that makes people question whether the environments are natural or imagined. It was a fun and insightful experience that helped me develop my collage style, which has since become one of my specialties.

How do you approach directing video projects, with the intersection of still photography and moving images becoming more prominent?

When directing video projects, I approach them like a photo shoot—focusing on strong visuals and storytelling. I plan each shot and ensure the lighting and composition work well. I also consider using movement to enhance the story, ensuring everything looks great, whether in stills or video. It’s all about blending the two mediums to keep a consistent and engaging style.

What key tips or techniques would you recommend to photographers looking to improve their workflow?

To make your workflow smoother, start by keeping your gear organized and ready to go—this reduces stress during shoots. Plan your shots and settings to stay on track. When shooting, use tools like Capture One to speed things up with its great color grading and organization features. Presets and templates can also help you maintain consistency and save time. Finally, back up your work regularly in multiple locations to avoid losing anything. These tips will help keep things running smoothly.

How do we come into your workflow, and what features do you find most beneficial for your photography?

Capture One is a big part of my workflow. I love its color grading and editing tools for achieving the perfect look in my photos. The tethering feature is super handy during shoots, as it allows me to see and adjust images in real time, speeding up the process and ensuring I get what I need. Capture One’s speed and efficiency are also great for quickly handling large volumes of images, making my workflow smoother and more effective.

What’s a must-have for a photoshoot, and why?

A solid plan and communication with everyone involved are essential for a photoshoot. Good planning ensures that you stay organized and make the most of your time. Clear communication with your team helps everyone stay on the same page, keeping the shoot running smoothly and helping you achieve the best results.

What advice would you give aspiring photographers trying to develop their unique style?

Experiment a lot, and don’t rush it. Try different techniques and subjects to find what clicks with you. Make mistakes and learn from them—that’s how you develop your unique style. Look at other photographers’ work for inspiration, but focus on what makes your approach unique. Keep practicing and refining your style over time.

See more of Ruo’s work on his Instagram and website.


 

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How Caroline captures the unseen: A photographer’s secrets to emotional storytelling

Meet Caroline Grzelak, a Warsaw-based photographer and art director whose imagery blurs the lines between reality, memory, and emotion. With a background in graphic design from the Magdalena Abakanowicz University of Fine Arts, Caroline has crafted a style she calls “Emotional. Unavailable. Frozen.” She’s passionate about sparking the imagination and inviting viewers to interpret each image in their way.

We asked her to share a bit about her inspiration, her style, and what it’s like to create pictures reflecting her story.

We’ll move from family photos with a plastic camera to developing her unique imaging approach. Let’s get into it. 

What’s your first photo memory?

My first memory related to photography dates to the 90s in Poland, with the sun, my family home, and a small plastic film camera. It was always magical and astonishing to me how photographs were created. Back then, the camera accompanied my family everywhere; it was a part of us. At that time, it never crossed my mind that I would be using those same cameras to create my own art in a few years. However, one thing remains the same – that strange feeling of freezing a moment in time, whether it’s a family photo or my project. This feeling stays with me, and I often think about it when taking pictures.

Why did you choose photography? 

In a way, photography chose me. I was born into a family where many photos were taken, so I was connected to it from a young age. My father took many images and taught me much about film, giving me his cameras to take pictures with. My photography journey led me through sculpture, drawing, painting, and graphic design, ultimately bringing me to where I am today. I am very grateful for this experience because it had a real impact on developing my photographic style. 

Who or what inspires you? 

My initial inspirations, probably like everyone else’s, stemmed from other photographs, films, or art. At a certain point, photography started to live its own life, my life and my mood. Subconsciously, I began to pour myself into my photographs, capturing my emotional states. Music significantly influences this, so, in short, music or, rather, the emotions associated with it. Of course, I am inspired by other artists I follow. Still, everything I create comes from the heart, through the lens of my sensitivity, with different imagery serving only as a spark in a specific direction, not as the destination. 

How would you describe your unique style? 

Emotional. Yes. Or emotionally unavailable. Frozen. My style emerged from me – naturally. The characters in my photographs reflect my sensitivity. It was never a purposeful act; simply by taking pictures, I began to unconsciously put a part of myself into them while also showing the models’ personalities. I like the way I capture them because it resonates with me. So, to sum up – emotional, unavailable, frozen in time and space. 

What’s a must-have on a photoshoot, and why? 

A well-coordinated team where everyone knows what they are doing and does it with total commitment. This is of great value because, in the end, it is a team effort. Besides that, good music and a matcha latte! 

Do you have a photography experience that stands out to you? 

Certainly, exceptional moments for me are all the firsts – the first well-exposed roll of film, the first perfect handprint in color grading, the first time photographing a top model, the first cover, and the first campaign. Sometimes, in the hustle and bustle of work, you forget how much you’ve achieved and how pleasant it feels when your dreams come true, sometimes without even realizing it! 

Is there anything that stands out about your workflow? 

Good timing in taking photos is essential to me because I like to shoot quickly and capture everything in the first moment so that the energy and emotions of the model are fresh, portraying them as they are and as I see them from the very first moment. 

What’s next – anything you’d love to shoot in the future? 

There are many magazines, models, and locations I would like to shoot for, and it’s impossible to list them all. However, I want to push beyond my comfort zone and experiment more. I want to do more projects that will help me look at my photography from a different perspective and allow me to create something I haven’t done before. 

See more of Caroline’ work on her Instagram.


 

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Discovering photography with Jess Brohier

Meet Jess Brohier – a South-Asian-Australian fashion, commercial, and editorial photographer and creative director based in Naarm (Melbourne), Australia. Her work explores themes of identity and surrealism, re-imagining Western beauty concepts through a BIPOC lens. She is known for her versatility in digital and analog mediums, unique color palette, and nuanced use of light. Jess has attracted premier Australian and global fashion, lifestyle, and music clients, showcasing her talent as a lead photographer and creative director/producer. We talked to her about her style, inspirations, and what the future holds. 

What’s your first photo memory?

I remember taking photos on a film point-and-shoot at high school events. At 18, in my senior year, I always brought a little disposable 35mm camera to our swimming and sports carnivals and documented our friends. I loved capturing candid moments of togetherness and youth.

Why did you choose photography?

I didn’t. From a young age, I’d always been delving into various kinds of art: painting, illustration, tattooing, and taking pictures. I would oscillate between drawing and photographs for a long time, and then, one day, I only wanted to take photos. I have always felt like photography chose me. It was the first form of expression I found that was also collaborative, and I’ve always loved working with people and trying to understand them. It has often felt like image-making flows out of me, and it just feels like second nature, like this was the thing I was always meant to do.

Who or what inspires you?

Nowadays, people who make positive changes in the world and find a way to entangle this within their artistic practice inspire me. Ib Kamara, the current editor of Dazed, is a prime example. How he has simultaneously produced an incredible visual and thought-provoking publication while making strides in the commercial space for BIPOC representation is super inspiring to me. These days, creating beautiful things is not enough; for me, it has to mean something. Bold, strange, beautiful scenes, conversations, images, and artwork inspire me. Concepts of Psychology, Sociology, and Surrealism are also large sources of inspiration for my creative practice.

How would you describe your unique style?

I think my images stylistically amalgamate everything I am as a person. My cultural heritage has surrounded me with color and energy from a young age and continues to influence my work substantially. My visual style combines nuanced color choices rooted in a love for nostalgia and a curiosity to explore identity and human experience. I am also a romantic and a dreamer, and I endeavor to create scenes that feel otherworldly, surreal, and cinematic.

What’s a must-have on a photoshoot, and why?

Snacks and a good sense of humor. It’s supposed to be fun! I’ve found I can only get something really worthwhile from the people I’m photographing when they aren’t hungry or uncomfortable, so that’s always my priority.

Do you have a photography experience that stands out to you?

I always returned to the first shoot, where I learned the importance of connecting with a subject. I was 24 years old, traveling in NYC, and I scored a feature in a music magazine, Mass Appeal. I photographed an artist, and it was my first-ever editorial shoot. I recall being super nervous, but the team was great, and we ended up hanging out around the city for 2 hours while I shot his portraits. Later, when I went home, I compared the first portrait I took of him with the last after we’d become friends, and it was almost like two different people; the feeling from each image was worlds apart. That was when I first understood what is required to take a good photo of somebody and how the connection is the most important thing. I’m still friends with that artist, and I’ve seen him almost every time I’ve been back in NYC more than ten years later.

Is there anything that stands out about your workflow?

I’ve gotten very good at making it almost seamless. I follow a very tight set of procedures in pre- and post-production that enable me to operate at speed and without missing a beat 99% of the time. Years of mistakes have proven very helpful in fine-tuning my photographic workflow.

What’s next – anything you’d love to shoot in the future?

I’m about to move part-time to NYC mid-year, which I’ve wanted to do for ten years.
I’m so excited to work with artists and publications on the other side of the world (from Australia) and push my creative boundaries.

I’d love to find a better balance between commercial work and art-making and return to a focus on editorial storytelling. I am also working towards a solo show and photobook that will launch in the next two years.

See more of Jess’ work on her Instagram and website.


 

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Blurring realities with Carlijn Jacobs

Carlijn Jacobs is a renowned photographer and director based in Paris, known for her distinctive flair and vibrant style. She tells unique stories through her sharp visual imagery, blending observations of mass culture with her artistic influences ranging from Surrealism to Camp. Carlijn’s creative journey began at 14, taking pictures of flowers in her garden. Over the past decade, she has worked for several magazines, including AnOther, i-D, and Dazed, and had her exhibition Sleeping Beauty shown at Foam in 2023. On top of countless fashion campaigns, Carlijn has also released an eponymous photobook. And notably photographed Beyoncé’s Renaissance album artwork.

The voice in her work feels intuitive and unusually real despite touching upon the absurd. A face peeking through a wine glass filled with goldfish and an eyeball superimposed on glossy red lips—the visual paradox in her compositions plays with the viewer’s sense of reality. Her work’s blurred lines, geometric shapes, and playful textures sit in the mind as she transforms the ordinary into something extraordinary. During our conversation, we discussed her creative process, inspirations, and methodologies as she navigates the intersection of commerce and art with remarkable finesse.

How long have you been a photographer?

I have been photographing since a very early age. I bought my first camera when I was around 14 years old. On a professional level, it’s been about ten years now.

How did you get started with photography?

I grew up in a tiny village with little to do. I began by photographing flowers in the garden and then moved on to photographing my best friend in the dresses she was making. When I attended the Art Academy in Rotterdam at 19, I started to take photography more seriously and really dived into it.

Who/what are you inspired by?

I am inspired by many things; I have an obsession with the avant-garde, the space age, geometric shapes, glass art, architecture, books, the interplay of light, colors, cinema, culture, and more. I love the work of Lauren Greenfield, Pierre Cardin, Yasuhiro Wakabayashi, Alejandro Jodorowsky, among many others.

How would you describe your work?

My work is very intuitive. It reflects the state of mind I’m in at the time of creation. Overall, it has a theatrical and eccentric nature, rich with colors and storylines. There’s a returning theme of transforming subjects.

Tell us about a unique photo of yours and how you created the creative concept for it.

Six years ago, I walked around Kyoto. It was evening, and suddenly, a taxi stopped with those lace curtains they always have. I see a white face behind the curtains, and suddenly, the door opens, and a geisha runs away quickly to her destination. It was such a special moment and the very first time I saw a geisha in real life. It went so fast that it felt like a dream. All these years later, I recreated the ‘dream’ from how it was in my mind.

How do you balance your unique, creative approach when you do more commercial projects?

I like to be closely involved with commercial projects. I try to push the conventions, making the projects reflect more of “me.” In the end, it’s all about balancing brand identity and my own style.

What is essential when you are on a photoshoot?

Music! Good vibes are everything. And preparation!

How does Capture One come into your workflow?

It’s [Capture One] such a helpful program to organize your day and structure your work. It’s an important software to play around with light and see instant results.

See more of Carlijn’s work on her Instagram and website. 


 

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